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When you hear the words "dress shoes," what image comes to mind?
Standing in contrast to what we'd call sneakers or sports shoes, dress shoes were originally made to be worn with the kind of attire suited to society parties or a night at the opera. As a result, they have historically placed importance on beauty of silhouette and texture rather than anything else. Given the name "dress shoes," you might picture something glamorous, but in fact most are simply shoes made of leather. While using high-quality leather, the designs are, surprisingly, often quite simple. Because of this, they're not only suited to celebrations, parties you've been invited to, or dinners out—occasions where you want to dress up a little—but also work beautifully paired with everyday outfits, elevating your style a notch further. This time, we'd like to introduce these unsung heroes of footwear: dress shoes.
Lace-up shoes, which fasten at the front with laces, are traditionally a staple of men's dress shoes. Even today, the shoes men pair with a suit are often what's known as Oxford shoes, a type of dress shoe with laces. Perhaps because they're so strongly associated with men's wear, when women wear them, they lend a stylish air, while pairing them with a soft, flowing skirt or gently colored clothing brings out a distinctly feminine style. Among lace-up shoes, the impression they give varies greatly depending on the shape and design of the toe.
Among lace-up shoes, those without any particular decoration from the vamp to the toe are called plain toe. Since the design is so simple, the impression changes greatly depending on the material used.
Originally devised as a dance shoe, the JazzShoe is a flat shoe by CATWORTH. Built for durability to withstand dance steps and taps, it's made from very soft calf leather, giving it a light feel and a fit that's gentle on the feet. Given its background as a dance shoe, it pairs relatively easily with casual styles, making it one of the more approachable lace-up options for everyday wear. The rounded plain toe has a soft sheen that plays up the suppleness of the calf leather.
■Styling suggestion: Blend it into an outfit of basic tones. Great for when you want to add a touch of gentle softness.
Also from CATWORTH comes this dress shoe in patent leather. With an enamel finish that adds even more shine, this lace-up shoe takes on a more formal feel. Because it's a plain toe, the difference in material really stands out.
■Styling suggestion: Pair it with an outfit in strongly contrasting colors, like denim and black. Showing a bit of ankle keeps the look clean.
Among lace-up shoes, the design known as straight-tip, where the toe cap is joined with a straight horizontal line, is a classic design for men's leather shoes worn with suits, and it carries a high degree of formality.
The chausser 2way shoe BR is a lace-up shoe whose lustrous cowhide creates a beautiful silhouette. Using a technique called the "McKay method," the upper, insole, and outsole are all stitched through together, achieving a clean, refined design. Because the shoe is finished so that it wraps the foot from the sole to the upper, it fits naturally. In addition to its straight-tip design, it features what's called an "inside-quarter" (uchibane-shiki) style, where the ends of the V-shaped section covering the instep are tucked inward. The look is understated and elegant, without any excess.
When worn by men, this style is formal enough to suit even weddings and funerals, but when worn by women, pairing it with a skirt or dress that shows the line of the leg makes it strikingly fashionable. The thoroughly simple lace-up design gives off a classic, refined air. The chausser 2way shoe BR can also be worn as a slip-on with the laces removed. Removing the laces gives it a more casual feel, so you might try changing up the shoe to suit your outfit.
■Styling suggestion: To emphasize the refined design unique to the straight-tip, we recommend keeping the rest of the outfit simple. This shoe pairs easily with a dress and tights, or slim-fitting pants.
Compared to the plain toe and straight-tip, the wingtip is a design that feels a bit more casual. It refers to a toe cap shaped like a "W," resembling a wing.
This is the wingtip leather shoe from PALANCO, a Spanish shoe brand. The somewhat rugged, sturdy impression it gives may come from the fact that the brand originally specialized in riding boots—perhaps reflecting that same solid craftsmanship, built to hold up well even after picking up dirt and scuffs.
The toe features a wingtip's "W" motif with delicate perforated decoration, along with an open lacing style that contrasts with the plain cap-toe. The wingtip alone is enough to set it apart from plain or cap-toe designs, and this difference traces back to the wingtip's origins as a working shoe—and hunting shoe—made in the wetlands of 16th-century Scotland and Ireland. Adopted into hunting shoe designs, the wingtip came to feature perforations that allowed the interior to dry more easily after wear.
The traditional wingtip design gives the shoe itself a more dressed-up, elegant appearance.
■Styling suggestions: Pair it with vividly colored clothing in blue or red, or with a patterned stole, and it will blend in beautifully without being too assertive.
Among dress shoes, pumps are one of the most approachable items for women. Laceless, with a wide-cut vamp, pumps were known as formal shoes for attending the opera as early as the 19th century. Patent leather pumps in particular are prized for resisting stains and lending a touch of luxury; their laceless construction gives a stable heel that's suited to long hours of wear, and the open vamp shape flatters the overall silhouette. Thanks to this balance of practicality and style, pumps have been beloved across generations.
With its adorable strawberry-red hue, the CATWORTH Slip on Ballet Shoe Ruby is a flat shoe featuring the classic pump design of a rounded toe with a ribbon accent. Made from glossy patent leather with a simple construction, the toe is neither too narrow nor too rounded, making it easy to fit a variety of feet. Its low heel is another appealing feature, allowing for long hours of wear.
This pump, with its soft sheen reflecting light and its eye-catching red color, shows its charm best when paired with dark-colored clothing. Combined with casual denim, it becomes a standout accent at the feet; paired with a skirt or dress, it serves as a refined finishing touch.
■Styling suggestions: These patent leather pumps have a strong presence when worn, so try pairing them with an otherwise thoroughly simple outfit and let the shoes take center stage. Combined with a traditional cardigan and a kilt skirt, they complete a distinctly British look.
Here we have another piece from CATWORTH: the Low Heel One Strap Shoe Patent/Lead. Strap shoes, which use a strap around the ankle to improve walkability, were originally formal shoes worn by dressed-up children in the 19th century. Perhaps it's this background that gives them a certain innocent charm along with a classic atmosphere. CATWORTH's strap shoes are crafted with a slightly slimmer shape toward the toe and a 3cm heel, creating a neat, streamlined look at the feet. A non-slip sole on the bottom also ensures added safety. Having just one pair on hand makes it a versatile dress shoe for semi-formal occasions such as invitations or dinner gatherings.
■Styling suggestions: A pair that pairs well with highly formal dresses or trousers. The glimpse of the strap peeking out adds a touch of polish to the overall impression.
Plain-toe pumps with a heel and no toe decoration have also become a classic design today. These are pumps by DIVINA, crafted by Italian artisans through roughly 240 steps, from leather cutting to hand-stitching the sole.
In Brenda, in northern Italy—an area that has thrived as a center of women's shoe production since the 13th century—beautiful shoes are made using more than 1,000 unique wooden lasts. The almond toe gently tapers to create a slender appearance, while the heel, wrapped in leather, has a slightly thicker build. These fine details combine to create both a stable fit and a beautiful silhouette. Though made in a single color, the use of high-quality cowhide with a subtle, refined sheen, along with soft suede, results in pumps that can be worn for a long time across a variety of occasions.
■Styling suggestions: A recommended pair for business settings and semi-formal occasions. The heel and almond toe create a slim, elongated silhouette, so pair them with trousers or a slightly fitted long skirt.
Among pumps with heels, chunky heel pumps feature an even thicker heel. DIVINA's chunky heel pumps have a heel height of about 5cm, yet they provide remarkable stability once worn.
What makes chunky heels so appealing is that, above all, they cause less fatigue when standing and are easier to walk in. Compared to plain pumps, the toe is rounder, and the wooden heel gives the shoe a visually lighter feel, making it easy to pair with everyday casual outfits.
■Styling suggestions: An all-purpose pair that's easy to wear and pairs well with your everyday denim or cotton skirts. It comes in handy throughout the year, from early spring to early autumn.
Dress shoes are generally made of leather designed to hold their silhouette, so compared to sports shoes like sneakers, they tend to be stiffer. Since maintaining the silhouette is important, we recommend always using a shoehorn when putting them on. Using a shoehorn makes it easier to slip your foot in and helps preserve the shoe's original shape for longer.
After wearing your shoes, make it a basic habit to wipe off dirt and dust with a soft, dry cloth—this simple care keeps them looking their best. This is especially important for patent leather styles, where shine is everything. Making a habit of wiping your shoes down after each wear will give you peace of mind, so you won't have to worry about dirt when it's time to put them on again.
Dress shoes go well with your everyday outfits, but they're also the kind of shoes you'll want to save for special occasions. Leather grows more comfortable and molds to your feet the more you wear it, but to let moisture escape from the inside, it's best to give your shoes a few days' rest between wears.
