Wearing femininity: exploring the charm of enamel leather shoes and the secrets to making them last

The gleaming enamel shoes we admired as children.

Enamel shoes seem to shine as they catch the light, and simply putting them on can make your feet—and your spirit—feel lighter, as if you've gained some mysterious power. For men, they tend to bring to mind shoes worn on formal occasions, but for women, enamel shoes come in a wide variety of designs, from pumps to lace-ups to ballet flats, so they can easily be worn casually with denim for everyday use as well.

Here, we introduce the charm of enamel shoes along with the proper care and storage methods that are surprisingly little known.

What kind of leather is enamel, exactly?

Put simply, enamel refers to genuine leather that has been processed and coated with enamel resin. Enamel was originally developed as a coating to protect leather. It seems to have also served a commercial purpose, making it possible to use leather that had scratches or blemishes by rendering them water-resistant. Because of this coating, enamel leather does not develop the "aging" or "softening" changes over time that are characteristic of untreated leather.

Enamel is often referred to as "patent leather." The word "patent" refers to a patent, and this name is said to have come about because the enamel-coating technique was patented in America—so it functions almost like a nickname. Enamel and patent leather are the same material, so there's no need to be confused between the two.

That said, not everything called "enamel" is genuine leather coated with enamel—some products are made of vinyl coated to look like enamel. This is known as vinyl enamel, and it involves applying a coating to synthetic leather. It's said to peel off easily and the surface tends to deteriorate and flake as it's used.

It seems that the name "enamel" is sometimes used as a general term for these products as well, so care is needed when identifying genuine enamel.

Enamel was once widely used as a material for luxury shoes. Since shoe polish isn't needed for its care, it's said to have been beloved for formal occasions because, unlike regular leather shoes, it wouldn't stain a woman's dress even if a man accidentally stepped on it during a ball. 

In this way, enamel was a material prized by both makers and wearers alike—not only for its beautiful appearance, but also for the qualities born from its manufacturing method.

Storied English dance shoes

These beautiful enamel shoes come from the British brand CATWORTH.

Founded in the 1970s, CATWORTH came into being when the founder's predecessor, a saddler by trade, entered the dance shoe market in the UK—a country with a large population of competitive dancers—and launched a new business. Today, it's said that only a handful of craftsmen in the UK still carry on this technique, and each pair of their storied dance shoes is carefully finished by hand.

CATWORTH is also so well known among dancers in the UK that it has earned certification from the Royal Academy of Dance Official Manufacture—the British dance academy whose patrons include Queen Elizabeth herself.

*The Royal Academy of Dance was founded in the UK in 1920 and is an international organization dedicated primarily to promoting the knowledge, understanding, and practice of ballet worldwide.

Dance shoes are typically meant for indoor wear, but because they're built to withstand a great deal of stepping and tapping, their durability makes them more than suitable for everyday outdoor use as well. The soft texture of the leather molds to your feet with each wear, and the outsole lends a light, easy stride along with a gentle look underfoot.

Low-heel single-strap shoes

Shoes: Low-Heel One-Strap Shoes, Patent/Black
Top: Crew Neck Sweater, Ecru
Skirt: Cotton Gathered Skirt

The Low-Heel One-Strap Shoes in Patent/Lead are made with soft patent leather. Once you slip your foot in, you'll find them remarkably soft, and since the parts touching your feet are lined with fabric, the risk of blisters is reduced. A Vibram-brand non-slip sole is also fitted to help you walk safely. The toe shape strikes an ideal balance—neither too narrow nor too rounded—making it appealing to a wide range of age groups.

The vamp isn't cut too low, so your toes stay covered even when worn barefoot. The strap holds your foot securely in place, making walking comfortable. While the design itself is simple, the glossy sheen of the enamel is more than enough to give your footwear a strong presence. They look great paired casually with rolled-up denim, or styled with colored tights and a skirt.

Flat Shoes, Jazz Shoe

Shoes: Flat Shoes, Jazz Shoe, Patent/Black
Top: AIRY WOOL Border Pullover
Bag: HORSE LEATHER DRAW STRINGS POUCH/S

These shoes, made for jazz dance, feature a 3 cm heel. The lace-up design lets you adjust the fit precisely along the top of your foot. Rather than flat laces, they use round laces, which suit the slightly dressy feel of this shoe.

Mannish enough to pair with pants, yet just as wonderful with a dress.

Ballet Shoes

Ballet shoes, which you can simply slip your feet into, are versatile shoes that combine ease of wear with a polished look. Brass comes in a gold color with a subtle sheen. Its mature, sophisticated hue and high-quality enamel material make it a striking accent for simple outfits, standing out beautifully at your feet. Ballet shoes work well in any season—pair them with tights or socks in the colder months, and enjoy them barefoot when it's warm. 

Care Tips for Keeping Enamel Shiny

Although enamel is a type of leather, it should not be cared for in the same way as ordinary smooth leather. Please understand the characteristics of enamel and learn the proper care so you can enjoy it for a long time.

・For daily care, wipe with a soft cloth after wearing

Dirt rarely gets embedded in the fibers, so wipe gently with a soft cloth rather than a brush. Since dirt shows up more easily on lighter-colored enamel, make sure to set aside time to wipe (and check for dirt) after wearing.

・Use enamel-specific care products to remove dirt and cloudiness, and to restore shine

There are products made specifically for enamel that remove dust, fingerprints, and other dirt, and restore shine. Please avoid using moisturizing creams meant for smooth leather, as they may cause the surface coating to peel off.

・Watch out for cracking

Since enamel is created by coating leather, the cross-section has some thickness, which makes it prone to the "creasing" that forms when walking, and cracks can develop along these creases. When not wearing the shoes, insert a shoe tree to help smooth out the creases.

・Keep other items from sticking to them

Because of the coating, enamel has a slightly tacky feel to the touch, and things tend to stick to it easily. Because of this, please be careful not to store the shoes in contact with paper materials such as newspaper. The paper itself may stick to the surface, or printed text and patterns may transfer onto the shoes. Once this happens, it's difficult to remove cleanly.

・Use a cloth bag when carrying them

For the same reason, when carrying your shoes while traveling, please use a cloth bag rather than newspaper, paper bags, or plastic bags.

・Watch the humidity, and wear them regularly

Long-term storage isn't recommended, as the coating can become sticky over time. Storing the shoes in a hot, humid place in particular can cause the surface coating to melt slightly, leading to tackiness. Wearing them regularly is itself a form of maintenance, so try to wear them throughout the year, regardless of season.

・Avoid waterproof spray

The waterproof sprays commonly used on leather shoes are not recommended for enamel. They can cause staining or dull the shine. Enamel shoes are said to be relatively water-resistant, but if they do get wet, wipe the surface with a soft cloth and make sure to dry the inside thoroughly in a well-ventilated place. 

・Storing enamel shoes

Among leather shoes, enamel is a material that requires especially careful storage. Once it becomes tacky, cracks, or fades, there's no going back. Precisely because of this, it's important to devote plenty of time, care, and attention to observing its condition—if you find that troublesome, it may be difficult to enjoy enamel shoes for the long term.

The basic rule of shoe care is: "When you get home and take your shoes off at the entrance, wipe them (or brush them) right away." This applies to any shoe, not just enamel—doing this lets you remove dust, dirt, and grime picked up while out and about while it's still fresh, and the degree to which dirt sets in differs greatly depending on how much time has passed. Why not make it a habit to wipe or brush your shoes as soon as you get home, no matter what kind they are?

Don't forget that thrill and excitement you felt when you first took your brand-new enamel shoes out of the box—cherish them as a companion to walk alongside you for years to come. 

▽See the full CATWORTH product lineup here