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Your First Donabe: What's the Right Way to Do Medome?

This time, we're taking a look at medome (目止め), the process of "sealing" a donabe (clay pot). There are many different types of donabe, but those made using traditional methods require medome, along with other care, in order to be enjoyed for years to come. Whether you've fallen for the charm of traditional pottery and picked up a donabe of your own, or you've received one as a gift and are about to use it for the first time, we hope this guide will be helpful to you.

■What Exactly Is Medome?

Donabe: Iga Clay Round Donabe, Four-Person Size (Clear Glaze, White)

Chopstick rest: Musubi Chopstick Rest

Teapot: Hizen Yoshida-yaki Water Drop Teapot and Teacup Set (Vermilion)

To begin with, "medome" refers to the process of treating a vessel to prevent water leakage, cracking, and the absorption of odors. As you'll often hear it said that "the first thing to do with a new donabe is medome," the term tends to be used in everyday life mainly in reference to donabe and other Japanese tableware. That said, it's also used in other contexts—for instance, during the manufacturing stage of woodwork, where you might hear about "sealing the kiji (unfinished wood)."

Next, let's look at why medome is necessary in the first place. Donabe and other tsuchimono (clay-based vessels) are made from clay that contains countless tiny pores, known as "me" (目). If these pores are left unsealed before use, they can weaken the vessel and lead to cracks starting from those fragile spots, or cause odors to become trapped in the fine pores and linger permanently. Medome is the process that prevents these problems, allowing the pot to be used sturdily for a long time.

You might find it a bit surprising that a pot could leak water in the first place. These days, it's easy to get your hands on pots made from materials like stainless steel or ceramic, which undergo minimal physical change depending on the environment or how they're used—making them convenient and easy to handle. Given this, it's no wonder that the idea of needing special care for a brand-new pot might feel unfamiliar. However, the "toko" (pottery clay) used in traditional donabe is water-absorbent by nature. It's much like how an unglazed terracotta flowerpot takes a while to dry out after being watered. The surface of a donabe is coated with glaze, so the situation is a little different, but it helps to think of a donabe as something that "breathes," absorbing water and air.


■The Right Way to Start Using a Donabe

The term "donabe" covers many different types of pots, so it's a good idea to first check what kind of donabe you have and look into the correct way to use it beforehand. Be sure to follow the instructions included with your pot. To give you a sense of how much they can differ, here are three types of donabe out of the many that exist.

Iga-yaki:

Highly heat-resistant and perfect for cooking directly over an open flame. Its dignified, earthy appearance and excellent heat retention are among its charms. Because the pores are coarse, regular medome is required, and the pot needs to be "raised" with care, paying attention to water leakage and odor absorption along the way.

Banko-yaki:

One of the most widely used types of pottery in Japanese households. It's classified as a type of semi-porcelain, made by blending a type of stone into clay that would otherwise be too heat-sensitive on its own, thereby increasing its heat resistance. Because the pores are fine, it's also quite resistant to absorbing odors.

Others (such as ceramic):

Many of these pots have been developed with practical features that let you use them without medome, and they're often compatible with both gas and IH stovetops. Since the pores are fine, they resist absorbing odors, and a single pot can be used for everything from kimchi hot pot to oden—a real advantage.

There are, of course, many more types of donabe beyond the ones listed here, but even this brief comparison shows how each type has its own distinct character. A "donabe that requires medome" might seem like a bit more trouble. And yet, there are good reasons to choose a truly traditional donabe—such as one made in the Iga-yaki style—including the fact that "the porous, coarse clay generates excellent heat retention, slowly drawing out the natural flavors of the ingredients," and that "once heated, it stays warm for a long time, making it ideal for hot pot dishes enjoyed together around the table." This is precisely why regular care, in the form of medome, is needed. The advantages and disadvantages of this type of donabe both stem from the very same qualities of the material.


■The Correct Way to Do Medome

Now that you understand what medome is, along with the unique characteristics of donabe, let's move on to actually carrying out the medome process.

① Check for Cracks or Noticeable Damage

First, when you unbox your donabe, check it carefully for any cracks or noticeable damage. If there happens to be any damage before you start using it, water can seep in through it and cause leaks, or it may end up breaking under the heat once placed over a flame—leading to unexpected problems. It's reassuring to inspect the pot yourself before adding any water or ingredients.

② Wash With Water and Dry Thoroughly

Wash the pot with water and dry it thoroughly. Wash it gently, as if you were giving water to the donabe and breathing life into it as a vessel. It's also important to resist the urge to start using it right away, and instead let it dry completely. If moisture remains inside at this stage, it could cause cracking once the pot is placed over heat. Be especially careful if the base has an unglazed, terracotta-like finish. Touch the bottom of the pot to make sure it's completely dry.


③ Fill With Water to About 80% Full and Add a Starchy Ingredient

Once you've confirmed that the pot is completely dry, fill it with water to about 80% full, then add a starchy ingredient. Good options here include cooked rice, potato starch, or wheat flour. The starch contained in these ingredients acts as a "binder" that seals the pores of the clay. Add roughly 1/5 the volume of water in starchy ingredient. Among these options, using cooked rice is especially recommended. The abundant starch in rice grains acts as an effective binder, sealing the pores of the donabe firmly.

③ Heat Over Low Flame for One Hour Without the Lid

Once everything is ready, place the pot over low heat. The key point here is to leave the lid off. Heat it slowly to prevent the contents from boiling over.

④ Wait for it to cool

After 1 hour has passed, turn off the heat and leave it as is. Here, too, there's no need to rush. Let the pot cool naturally.

⑤ Rinse with water and dry thoroughly

Once the pot has completely cooled, discard the contents and rinse with water. As with the first rinse, take your time to dry it thoroughly until all moisture is gone.

That covers the steps for "mejime" (sealing the pot). Since the characteristics of pottery vary depending on the type of clay and manufacturing method, please follow the instructions in any included manual if one is provided.

These days, many new types of donabe (earthenware pots), such as the ceramic pot introduced earlier, have been developed to be used without mejime. Depending on how you look at it, the extra step of mejime might seem like a bit of a hassle. But through this kind of care, the fired clay vessel is brought to life, transforming into a tool for everyday living—and this process can deepen our attachment to it.


■ Tips for making your donabe last longer

Once the initial mejime is complete, your donabe life truly begins. From classic hot pot dishes to oden and simmered udon, the donabe is a versatile tool for all kinds of cooking. Along with the mejime method, here are some tips for making your donabe last longer.

【Regular mejime and understanding kannyū (crackle patterns)】
 

While mejime is often thought of as something done only once, at the very start of use, performing it regularly can help keep your donabe strong. This is especially recommended for coarser-textured pots, like the Iga-yaki donabe introduced earlier.

When a donabe is heated, differences in the shrinkage rates of the clay body and the glaze cause kannyū to appear on the surface. Kannyū refers to a pattern resembling fine, spiderweb-like cracks. While the glaze normally serves to prevent water from penetrating the pot, once kannyū appears, there's a chance water may seep in through these tiny gaps. By performing mejime regularly, you can fill in these gaps in the kannyū, helping to prevent water from soaking in.

【Avoid sudden temperature changes】

Clay is a material that "breathes." As it repeatedly heats and cools, the donabe expands and contracts. Because of this, if it's heated or cooled too suddenly, the donabe's "breathing" can't keep up with the rapid temperature change, leading to cracks or damage. Kannyū itself, caused by the differing shrinkage rates of the clay body and glaze, gradually develops over time as a natural part of a donabe's character—but cracks caused by sudden heating or cooling are a different matter, and can lead to breakage. Before placing it on the heat, check that the bottom of the pot is completely dry, and start with a gentle low flame. Think of it like a warm-up: first heat the broth gently over low heat, letting the donabe warm up gradually. After cooking, avoid cooling it down too quickly—let it cool somewhat before rinsing with water, which puts less strain on the pot.

【Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the surface】

Washing your donabe the right way is another important point. A pot made from fired clay is quite delicate. Abrasive cleaners, like those with scouring powder, can scrape and scratch the clay, damaging the surface of the pot and creating openings for water to seep in. Once you've finished cooking and the donabe has completely cooled, wash it with a soft sponge.

【Store it only once it's completely dry】

As mentioned in the precautions for the mejime process, thorough drying is essential for a donabe. Clay is naturally a highly absorbent material, so for donabe with unglazed bottoms in particular, washing after use means the pot will absorb some water and moisture.

If you store the pot while it's still not fully dry, or if it wasn't dried thoroughly after mejime, the donabe will hold onto that moisture for an extended period, which can lead to mold or absorbed odors. Even if you perform mejime regularly, insufficient drying can actually work against you. Make "dry thoroughly, both before heating and after use" your guiding principle.

We've introduced the mejime method from the perspective of "your first donabe." While some pots require mejime, these days new types of pots are also being developed with various innovations that allow for easy use without it. As mentioned in this article, each type has its own merits. Mejime may take a bit of extra effort, but through this process, life is breathed into the donabe as a vessel, and it grows a little more with each use—enjoying that process is truly part of the appeal of owning a donabe. Why not take a little extra time and effort now and then, and enjoy a delicious pot of hot pot with those around you?


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投稿者: 斎藤 日時: 2018年01月07日 11:00 | permalink

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