The Appeal of Colchester Rubber Company, Pioneer of Vulcanized Sneakers

A classic sneaker.

That's the impression you might get at first glance from the sneakers made by COLCHESTER RUBBER CO.

A pair packed with everything that makes low-tech sneakers appealing—canvas uppers, a toe cap, and a rubber sole. Both the high-cut and low-cut versions have a design that feels utterly familiar, but here's the secret: this is actually the original model from which that "familiar" sneaker design was born.

When people think of familiar canvas sneakers, CONVERSE or KEDS usually come to mind, but some people find these brands so ubiquitous that they end up avoiding them. You want a "canvas sneaker," but something different from what everyone else wears—yet still easy to wear, not too flashy, and quietly complementary to your outfit. And ideally, something with a bit of brand history behind it.

As it turns out, COLCHESTER RUBBER CO. is exactly the answer to that wish.

The Origins of the Sneaker

So, what exactly defines a "sneaker"?

・A rubber sole

・An upper made of fabric (or leather)

The reason for the rubber sole lies in pursuing the right friction for the intended use, while the fabric upper is chosen for lightness and flexibility. The English word "sneaker" comes from "sneak"—to creep quietly. It's said that shoes marketed with the catchphrase "the quiet shoe that lets you sneak up without a sound" eventually became the name for the item itself.

As the materials suggest, sneakers were originally not a fashion item but sports equipment. In the past, leather shoes were the standard for fashionable footwear. Sneakers, on the other hand, developed as shoes that made movement and sports easier. As a result, sneakers designed for sports each carry features suited to the movements and playing conditions of their particular sport, and most have evolved to match the demands of their respective styles.

The Brand That Originated the Basketball Shoe

Amid all this, it was COLCHESTER RUBBER CO. that created the prototype for the basketball shoe (basuke). In 1892, the year after basketball itself was invented, the company developed a basketball shoe based on the design conceived by Naismith, the father of basketball.

This is the very first model, made in 1892 (125 years ago!), called the National Treasure.

Even compared to today's canvas sneakers, it's clear that the style was already fully established from the very beginning.

The design is said to have been created by Irving, the son of COLCHESTER RUBBER CO.'s founder. Since Irving himself is known to have been involved in the founding of basketball, this adds further weight to the idea that these were indeed sneakers made specifically for the sport.

The founders of both CONVERSE and KEDS originally came from COLCHESTER RUBBER CO., and it's said that Converse's "ALL STAR 1917" was created based on the National Treasure that COLCHESTER RUBBER CO. had designed.

In reviving the world's first basketball shoe, great care was taken to faithfully reproduce the original design of that era. At the same time, the wearing comfort has been improved beyond the original, thanks to modern technology. Let's take a closer look at what makes this sneaker so good.

The Manufacturing Method, Comfort, and the Thought Behind It

— The Vulcanized Manufacturing Method

This is the vulcanized manufacturing method, pursued for its flexibility and durability when worn. The vulcanized process refers to the technique of bonding a sneaker's upper and sole together, and was established in the 1840s.

The upper and sole are molded together from raw, not-yet-hardened rubber, then placed in a special kiln where high heat and pressure, along with a vulcanizing agent such as sulfur, cause the rubber to harden and bond firmly. This allows two different materials—the canvas upper and the rubber sole—to fuse powerfully into a single, unified piece.

Because the upper and sole are so strongly bonded, there's little risk of the sole peeling away. Since bonding and molding happen simultaneously, the shoe retains flexibility, bending naturally at the points where your foot bends as you walk. In other words, the result is a sneaker that is both sturdy and easy to walk and move in.

— An Outsole Designed with Slip Resistance in Mind

The outsole features carefully placed slits so players don't slip on a basketball court where sweat tends to fly. What's more, since basketball is played on a narrow court that demands constant speed—including quick spin moves to evade opponents—the outsole uses a uniquely formulated rubber that bends easily and clings to the foot without any sense of discomfort.

The distinctive outsole design is modeled after a turkey's feather. This pays homage to a Native American figure from Connecticut roughly 400 years ago, whose legendary jumping ability inspired the design—the wish being that basketball players might be blessed with jumping power as if they had wings of their own.

— The High-Cut That Supports the Ankle

There are both high-cut and low-cut models. Nowadays, many people think of high-cut sneakers simply as a way to add volume at the ankle or as a fashionable style to pair with socks, but originally the shape was designed to protect the ankle during fast-paced basketball play and prevent sprains. Extending up past the ankle bone and fitting snugly around the ankle, this design was revolutionary at the time.

— Special Shoes Made by Seven Craftsmen

The work that machines cannot do is finished by hand by carefully selected craftsmen. The upper stitching, the side foxing tape, the toe cap, the toe guard—it's surprising to learn that the bonding of these parts is essentially all done by hand.

— A Quiet Dedication to Durability and Comfort

The sides of the upper are reinforced with layered fabric in certain areas, reflecting a commitment to durability befitting a sneaker suited for sports.

The BUILT-IN ARCH CUSHION, present since the model first made in 1892, remains as well. It supports the arch of the foot, designed to reduce fatigue and make walking easier.

— Respect, Shown Through Illustration

On the underside of the tongue of the COLCHESTER RUBBER CO. sneaker is an illustration of James Naismith, the inventor of basketball and the man who conceived of basketball shoes. It's a design that shows a playful touch along with genuine affection for Naismith.

High-Cut and Low-Cut Models

At ZUTTO, we're introducing 2 shoe types, each in 6 colors.

Sizes are available in 3 options, from 23cm to 25cm.

【High-Cut】

The high-cut type gives your feet a sense of presence, making it a great choice even for simple outfits.

Not only does it work with pants-based styles, but pairing it with skirts or shorts adds an extra touch of cuteness.

【Low-Cut】

The easy-to-wear low-cut type pairs well with jeans or skinny pants, and showing a bit of ankle can even have a slimming effect. With loose wide-leg pants, it blends in smoothly for a stylish overall look. Even feminine outfits paired with skirts or pumps take on a mature, refined casual style when you switch to low-cut sneakers.

Care Tips for Long-Term Use

・Brush off dust and sand daily

→ Dealing with dirt on the same day it happens prevents it from setting in. Just as you would brush off dust when you get home, be sure to do the same with your sneakers.

・Prevent stains with waterproof spray

→ Waterproof spray protects against not just water but dirt as well. Spray it on regularly to keep water stains and grime from taking hold.

・Use an eraser on rubber parts

Try rubbing an eraser on any dirt that gets on the rubber tape along the sides. For light stains, this will lighten them right up.

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These days, sneakers have gone beyond being mere sports equipment—they've become such an important fashion item that they even have collectors. But learning about the background behind their creation makes you look at them just a little differently. Every object has a reason for being born, and it gets updated to further adapt to the lifestyles and environments that make use of it. Perhaps that kind of built-in mechanism is the secret behind things that continue to be loved for so long.

▼See the full COLCHESTER RUBBER CO. product lineup