Full-leather bags with character—made to be enjoyed as they age

From bags to wallets to card cases,
many people love choosing leather items.
This time, let's go back to basics and take a fresh look at what leather
actually is, learning about its appeal along the way.

Did you know that what we simply call "leather goods" actually
encompasses many different kinds of "leather"?
It varies widely depending on the type of leather and the way it's processed.
Let's take a look at the characteristics of some basic types of leather.

[Cowhide]
Cowhide is the most common leather used in leather goods. This is said to be
because of the abundant supply of beef, the wide range of applications
it allows for in leather goods, and its sturdiness.
It's classified in detail by factors like age and sex, and one of cowhide's
strengths is that you can choose the type of leather to suit

the product being made.

[Goatskin]
Compared to cowhide, goatskin is supple to the touch yet strong,
which means even thin pieces offer high durability.
Soft and slightly plump, it's easy to hold and is also used
as a material for gloves.

[Pigskin]
Pigskin is the only hide that Japan can supply entirely domestically. It's
lightweight, and because the surface layer is dense, it resists friction well.
Since three pores pass all the way through the hide, it offers excellent
breathability, and this advantage is said to make it a popular choice
for shoe linings.

[Horsehide]
Because of its coarse fiber structure, horsehide is among the less durable
leathers, but its flexibility has made it a popular choice for clothing.
However, a rare type of horsehide known as cordovan has densely packed
fibers and is said to be 2-3 times stronger than cowhide.
Cordovan has a firm feel to the touch and develops a beautiful sheen.

Leather is known as a durable material that can be cherished for years,
but why exactly is leather so sturdy in the first place?

The secret actually lies in the structure of the hide, which consists of three layers.
1. Epidermis (the layer with hair)
2. Dermis (collagen fibers)
3. Subcutaneous layer

Only the second layer, the dermis, is processed into what we call "leather."
The collagen-fiber dermis is further divided into a "papillary layer" and a "reticular layer,"
and it's said that leather owes its sturdiness to the way thin and thick fibers
in each layer intricately intertwine and tangle together.

The shoulder area is firm, while the leather around the belly is thin and soft.
Beyond this firmness or softness depending on the area,
leather also has the property of stretching easily when pulled along
the direction of the fibers, and resisting stretching when pulled against it.
When making a leather product, the strength of the finished piece can change
considerably depending on which part of the hide is used, how it's cut,

and how it's stitched together.

On top of the inherent strength of the hide as a raw material,
there's the additional strength and flexibility gained through tanning,
and then there's the depth of knowledge and skill that the craftsperson
working the leather brings to it—all of which affect how long
the leather will last. It's a truly fascinating subject.

Now, with this bit of leather knowledge in mind, let's turn to the subject of leather bags.
The reason being, among all the leather items one might own, I think a bag is where
you can enjoy the qualities of leather the most.
Here's why:

・It becomes more comfortable to carry as it breaks in
・You can enjoy watching its appearance change across a large surface
・There's a sense of raising it yourself

When you use a bag, it's constantly in contact with your hands and also gets plenty
of sunlight. You can enjoy it both by touch and by sight, and it develops
character quickly over time. Since it doesn't get as dirty as shoes,
it's easier to care for, and it comes in handy as an accent piece

for your outfit.

Leather also inherently has a quality called "rigidity."
Rigidity refers to the ability to resist changing shape even when bent or twisted.
It may seem surprising that leather, which softens and molds to you over time,
also has rigidity, but aside from the way it molds to you, leather has a tendency
to return to its original shape, which means that with proper care,
it can maintain a beautiful form.
Leather that combines this comfortable flexibility with a shape-retaining rigidity

is perfect for a bag you carry with you and fill with things every day.

And of course, there are downsides that come precisely because it's leather.

・Heavy
・Can't be used on rainy days
・Requires maintenance

As for needing maintenance, for some people this is really the same thing
as the "sense of raising it yourself" listed among the benefits.
If you find it bothersome to regularly check the condition of the leather,
dust it off, and keep it moisturized, leather goods may not be for you.
But if you enjoy the process of maintenance, leather is something that
becomes more beautiful in proportion to the care you put into it.

With an understanding of the benefits and drawbacks of leather bags,
let's now introduce some leather bag brands, each with their own distinct character.

At REN,
bags are made with the philosophy that "a bag is completed only when the user uses it,"
crafting bags that fit the body so naturally you forget you're even carrying them.
What creates this comfortable feel is a form carefully considered based on
the material's characteristics, along with a dedication to leather that is
light, soft, and pleasant to the touch.

BARE, REN's original leather,
is made from goatskin. Its soft, relaxed feel and texture offer a pleasant
touch quite different from cowhide.
To bring out the natural grain of the goatskin, it's simply tanned
with a minimal amount of dye and oil, resulting in leather notable for
its natural surface sheen and beautiful drape.

From the very first time you hold it, the leather already feels broken in, and when slung over the shoulder
It's a bag that fits the body perfectly with absolutely no stiffness, making it very easy to carry.

The design fully draws out the appeal of this carefully chosen leather.
As its name suggests, the "FUKURO 2way Reji Bukuro"
is inspired by the plastic shopping bags you receive when you go shopping.
By using plump, full leather, it takes on a rounded, adorable look.
The key feature is two handles of different lengths; by threading each
through the other handle, you can use the bag two ways—as a one-shoulder bag or
as a handbag.
You can see that the design was thought out so that the bag
looks its best once it's filled with your belongings.

Bag: REN / FUKURO 2way Reji Bukuro S・Tops, bottoms: ZUTTO original (to be released soon)
Hat: CTH 1885 / Tiffany Sr Panama Straw

We mentioned that one drawback of leather is that it can be "heavy," but
the leather used for Tusting bags
is exceptionally thin and light.
You can easily scrunch the surface of the bag with your hand—it's almost surprising how soft it is.
The secret to its lightness lies in the material: shoe leather, or Italian calfskin,
which is normally used as lining for high-end shoes.
Shoe leather boasts outstanding durability, so it remains sturdy even when thin.
The leather surface used on the outside is vegetable-tanned and aniline-dyed,
then polished with natural wax and stone polishing before being finished with a
wrinkle treatment, giving it a glossy sheen and a smooth feel to the touch.

Tusting bags already have a natural sheen and distinctive fine wrinkles
from the start, but as you use them more, these wrinkles increase further, giving rise to the supple,
relaxed feel unique to leather. Rather than being plump, the leather has, if anything,
a sharper impression. Because the leather is extremely thin, and because a lining is
attached on the inside, it feels smooth and makes a rustling sound even when touched from the outside.

Tusting, for its ease of use.
Here, "easy to use" refers not to the functionality of the bag's design, but to
the leather's inherent quality of being "light and soft."
With larger bags like totes, if the leather itself is heavy, combined with
the weight of what you put inside, carrying it around can become quite a burden.
For those who carry a lot of belongings, or those looking for a bag for work, one made of lightweight leather (meaning the bag itself is light)
is ultimately easier to use and something you'll cherish for a long time—so we recommend it.

CI-VA bags, which undergo tannin tanning,
are known for their beautiful aging.
Tannin tanning requires more careful maintenance compared to common chrome tanning,
but the leather changes all the more for the care you put into it, so please keep an eye on
the leather's condition and take good care of it.

The undyed natural color in particular deepens through exposure to sunlight and handling with your hands,
gradually turning into what is truly an "amber" (caramel) color.
Since the leather makes use of shibo (the natural creases and unevenness on the leather surface),
as you use it, color is added to the shibo as well, revealing yet another expression over time.

Black takes on a sheen and luster over the years, transforming into a chic, more mature
atmosphere.

Bag: CI-VA / Kinchaku Shoulder Cuoio・Tops, bottoms: ZUTTO original (to be released soon)

CI-VA's leather is plump and full, with a rounded,
gentle feel. Carrying this bag instantly gives any outfit
a feminine, elegant finish.

【Notes on Use】
The beauty and lifespan of leather change completely depending on how it's used
day to day, and on how well it's maintained.
Even just being mindful of this makes a difference, so please be sure to use it correctly.

・Wipe it dry after use
It's a good idea to keep a cloth or brush by your entryway, and make it a habit to
lightly wipe (or brush) your bag or shoes when you get home.
Removing dust the same day it collects prevents dirt from setting in
and doesn't interfere with the leather's ability to breathe.

・Rest it for a day after a day of use
A leather bag that's been used for a full day, carrying heavy items, needs a break. To let the leather's natural
"tendency to return to its original shape" work in its favor and prevent it from losing its form,
be sure to empty it completely and give it a day to rest.
Just like with shoes, rotating between several bags is the key to making them last longer.

・Avoid using it on rainy days
There is leather that has been treated to withstand rain, but the items handled by ZUTTO are
not recommended for rainy-day use.
When leather absorbs water, it can develop stains, and in some cases become stiff and lose its shape.

・Watch out for humidity during storage
Storing a bag in a plastic bag traps moisture inside, which can cause mold and odor.
Place paper inside the bag to help it hold its shape, put it into a cloth storage bag,
and keep it somewhere with good ventilation.
It's even better if you occasionally take it out of the bag during storage and air it in the shade.

※Newspaper is well-suited for the paper you place inside the bag.
This is because it absorbs moisture at just the right level, and the smell of the ink also has an insect-repelling effect.
However, since the ink may transfer onto the inside of the bag, be sure to wrap the newspaper
in another sheet of paper or cloth before using it.

【Care Using TAPIR】

TAPIR, which offers a full range of maintenance products for leather goods and shoes, is
made from 100% natural materials such as beeswax and orange oil.
It was born from its developer's own feeling that
"there's no wax out there that I'd want to use on my own precious leather goods."

Lederpflege Creme (Leather Care Cream)

It spreads smoothly and is easy to use as a cream-type moisturizer.
Take a small amount and work it into the leather with a soft cloth.
With its pleasant citrus scent, it makes caring for your leather even more enjoyable.

Waterproof Spray for Leather

Waterproof spray not only protects against water but also helps prevent stains, so
if you'd like to keep your bag looking clean, we recommend using it regularly.
Hold the spray 20–30cm away from the bag and apply, then brush lightly afterward.
That said, since waterproof spray coats the leather,
naturally it becomes harder for the leather to develop patina while that effect lasts.
If you want to fully enjoy the aging process, you might limit waterproof spray use to the rainy season only,
adjusting your approach depending on how much change you'd like to see.

Did the appeal of full-leather bags come through to you?
Leather does come with a higher price tag, but it's rare to find another material that
grows more beautiful the more care you put into it, while also being sturdy and long-lasting.
Watching it change over time as it's exposed to sunlight, touched by your skin, and felt against your hands,
you'll find your attachment to it growing deeper and deeper—and simply owning it
becomes a "special" thing all your own that brings you joy.
You don't need many.
Just find the one you feel you'll want to keep using forever.