The appeal of suede and nubuck: leather materials with a soft impression

There are many kinds of leather items, and even under the single word "leather," there are countless varieties. There are differences in type, such as cowhide or horsehide, and differences depending on the animal's age, while processing methods also change the leather's characteristics and even what it's called. So what kind of leather are suede and nubuck?

These are leather materials that have been brushed to raise a nap, giving them a texture similar to velour fabric. They're often used for bags and shoes, and when it comes to clothing, jackets come to mind as well.

This time, we'd like to introduce the characteristics and appeal of suede and nubuck, along with notes on handling and care. 

What kind of material are suede and nubuck?

When we hear the word "leather," the first thing that probably comes to mind is what's known as smooth leather—the kind with a glossy surface and the characteristic grain unique to leather. Smooth leather is tanned using the surface of the hide (the grain side), and regardless of variety or degree of processing, it remains a "smooth" leather.

In contrast,

Suede: Leather that has been brushed with sandpaper or similar tools on the flesh side (the side that is normally the interior) to raise a nap.

Nubuck: Leather from the grain side (surface side) of calf, goat, or sheep hide, tanned and then brushed with sandpaper or similar tools to raise a nap, finished to have a soft texture. 

Suede and nubuck may look and feel similar, but they differ in whether the surface side or the flesh side of the hide is used. 

Differences between the two leathers

Suede: Longer nap, a stronger brushed texture, and the leather itself is thinner

Nubuck: Shorter nap, a delicate texture with more sheen, and the leather is thicker

Suede is said to have a longer nap because it uses the side with coarser fibers on the reverse of the hide. Incidentally, the name "suede" is said to come from the fact that this technique was developed in Sweden. 

Shoes: DIVINA/Chukka Boots
Coat: Yarmo/Lab Coat

The appeal of suede and nubuck

Suede and nubuck are brushed leathers that differ from ordinary leather both in appearance and texture, but

・A distinctive sheen and warm atmosphere

・A high level of fashion appeal while retaining the durability of leather

・Easy care (fewer steps required) 

These are among the several advantages they offer.

With its brushed texture and "warm-looking" appearance, in Japan it seems suede and nubuck tend to be reserved for autumn and winter wear depending on the season. Surprisingly, though, that's not the case overseas—it's often used for rugged designs like boots, and seems to be widely recognized as a "durable material." 

The fact that care is simple means that, unlike ordinary leather goods, suede does not require moisturizing with leather cream. Please be careful, though—if you apply leather cream or wax, the raised nap will flatten out and the item will lose its distinctive texture. 

【　Suede Bags　】

Bag: vasco/[Special Order] SUEDE×LEATHER CITY MAIL Bag SMALL

Top: FilMelange/BAILEE Organic Raffia Pullover

Skirt: ONEIL OF DUBLIN/EASY KILT (83cm) BLACK STEWART

Shoes: NPS/Desert Boots BROWN

Let's start with a bag, which is easy to incorporate into your everyday fashion.

This bag from vasco is made from American-produced cowhide, processed to bring out a vintage-like expression, giving it the distinctive air of an item that's been cherished for many years. Its shape is based on bags used by postal carriers in American cities during the 1960s and 70s, so it's amusing that it uses a clasp-style opening. The metal fittings are made of brass, lending an even more substantial impression—a bag brimming with the kind of character rarely found anywhere else but vasco.

Since a bag carried by hand lets you really feel the pleasant texture of suede, it's an item that any leather lover should have at least one of. 

【　Suede Sneakers　】

WALSH/Tornado Halley Stevensons Iron

Suede is often used partially on sneakers, and its soft texture combined with durability makes it well-suited as a material for sneakers meant for active movement.

These sneakers from WALSH combine suede with waxed cotton. Waxed cotton is a fabric made water-resistant by impregnating cotton with wax, and as you wear it, the wax gradually wears away, letting you enjoy the changing color and texture over time. The natural cotton pairs well with the suede, and among sneakers that often use nylon for the upper, this pair achieves a soft, natural feel.

【　Nubuck Boots　】

dansko/MARIA Black Milled Nubuck

Durable nubuck is also frequently used as a material for shoes.

danskoのMARIAブーツは、フルグレインレザーの表側を細かく起毛させたミルドヌバックをアッパーに使用しています。毛足が短くシンプルながら、上質さと温もりを感じさせてくれますね。 The dansko MARIA boots use milled nubuck for the upper—full-grain leather with the surface finely brushed. With its short nap, the material has a simple look, yet it conveys both quality and warmth.

dansko shoes are highly functional as well, offering excellent cushioning. The leather-wrapped footbed and arch support make for a comfortable fit. When you slip your foot in, the entire foot, including the instep, is snugly enclosed, while the interior widens from the middle of the foot toward the toes, leaving plenty of room for your toes to move freely. 

Care Tips to Make It Last Longer

When it comes to suede and nubuck, the main concerns are "fading," where the material gradually turns whitish with use, and a loss of texture as the nap gets flattened down. Precisely because suede and nubuck items have such a rich texture, we'd love for you to keep them looking their best for years to come through regular care.

・Before You Start Using It

For suede and nubuck shoes and bags especially, we recommend protecting them with a waterproofing spray before the first use. Waterproofing spray not only repels moisture, but also keeps dirt from settling in and taking hold, which makes it especially effective for suede and nubuck, materials that are prone to picking up grime. That said, this protective effect does wear off with use, so be sure to reapply the spray periodically. 

・Brush After Wearing

With shoes in particular, dust collects on them each time you wear them, even if it's not visible to the eye. On suede and nubuck, dust and sand get caught in the raised, textured surface, leading to dirt buildup and dulled color, so once you're home, gently brush away the dust with a soft-bristled brush.

※We recommend keeping a separate "dust-removal" shoe brush with nothing applied to it, rather than using a brush that has shoe cream on it. 

・Brushing Also Helps Groom the Nap

Beyond just removing dust, brushing is also important for suede for another reason: it helps groom the nap and raise up fibers that have gotten flattened. Suede looks its best when the raised nap is well-groomed and has a nice sheen, and brushing is essential for maintaining that. In addition to a regular brush, there's also a care method that uses a metal brush made specifically for suede to help bring up more nap. 

・Use a Gum Eraser for Stains

Compared to smooth leather with a grain finish, suede and nubuck seem to pick up dirt more easily, and it tends to stand out more. For spots with stains, gently rub them away using a dedicated gum eraser or gum brush, much like erasing with a regular eraser. 

・For Fading, Use a Suede Color Restorer Spray

With darker colors especially, the whitish fading that occurs over time really stands out. For suede and nubuck, you can use a dedicated color restorer spray to add color back in. Being able to revive the color as you continue using the item over the years is a real advantage.