Unraveling the origins of the polo shirt: the secrets behind its function and design

Made from sporty materials yet featuring a collared design, the polo shirt can be styled both casually and formally.

Originally devised as sportswear, it's now embraced as a fashion item

by both men and women alike.

The reasons behind the polo shirt's choice of material and design can be traced back to its roots—it was born for people who play sports.

If we think about the name "polo shirt,"

we can see a connection to polo, the sport played on horseback while hitting a ball with a stick.

But the true origin of the name actually has to do with tennis.

The prototype of the polo shirt is said to have been devised by René Lacoste.

He is the founder of Lacoste, the brand famous for its crocodile logo.

He was a renowned tennis player, and in order to play tennis more comfortably,

he developed what was, for its time, an innovative short-sleeved collared shirt.

In the 1920s, sports were regarded as a pastime for ladies and gentlemen,

so long-sleeved cotton shirts were the common choice of attire while playing.

However, as clothing meant for a sport that involves running around and sweating,

he felt doubts about their lack of functionality and practicality.

At the time, he took notice of the jersey-material shirts worn by polo players,

and modified them for tennis with short sleeves and a collar, giving rise to the shirt we know today.

These days, a shirt with a collar, short sleeves, buttons, and made of kanoko (piqué) fabric

is commonly called a "polo shirt," but it was originally a "tennis shirt,"

devised by a tennis player for use in tennis. 

・Why kanoko (piqué) fabric is so often used

Many polo shirts are made from kanoko (piqué), a fabric with a bumpy, textured knit.

The characteristic feature of kanoko (piqué) fabric is its ability to absorb sweat and allow airflow. Because it absorbs moisture well and dries quickly, it prevents the discomfort of sweat clinging to the skin during play.

Being a knit material, it also offers great stretch, and its smooth feel against the skin

made it the ideal choice for sportswear.

・A collar that embodies gentlemanly sport

Sports with long histories, in particular, tend to place great importance on etiquette, with established codes of manners.

Tennis, polo, golf, and rugby are no exception—a collared uniform is part of the dress code,

considered a matter of respect toward one's opponent and the spectators.

The polo shirt (tennis shirt) created by Lacoste gained support from such sports

and gradually became a common piece of sportswear.

・Side slits that allow freedom of movement

Side slits were born to accommodate the vigorous movements of tennis.

These small slits, designed not to hinder the body's movement, have since been adopted in many other types of sportswear.

Polo shirt: Glacon／Polo Shirt Round Collar Blanc

Belt: ANGLO LEATHERCRAFT／[Special Order] Belt DOUBLE 3PLY BELT

Bag: HELEN KAMINSKI／Basket Bag RHYCE S Natural/Tan

ZUTTO carries polo shirts from three brands, each with its own distinct points of focus.

【Galcon】

What defines the Galcon polo shirt, above all, is its collar.

ー The brand's signature round collar

A rounded, charmingly cute impression rarely seen in polo shirt collars.

Polo shirts tend to carry a somewhat masculine image, but

the Galcon polo shirt sweeps that image away.

ー A collar stand that keeps its shape firmly upright

Turn back the collar, and you'll find a collar stand—another rare feature for a polo shirt.

Just like a dress shirt with a collar stand, this keeps a soft, beautiful silhouette when the collar is left down,

while firmly holding its shape—without going limp—when the collar is stood up.

It also reinforces the collar area, which tends to stretch out from repeated putting on and taking off—a thoughtful touch for long-term wear.

ー Front and back hems of equal length

Turn to the side, and you'll notice that the front and back panels are the same length.

Since people tend to lean forward while moving, polo shirts are generally

made longer in the back, but the Galcon design keeps both the same length.

This gives the silhouette a compact, clean, and stylish finish.

Polo shirt: Glacon／Polo Shirt Round Collar Rouge

Coat: NUOVA MAX CONF／Garage Coat NAVY

Shoes: VEJA／EAW2001 Leather Sneakers

Bag: SyuRo／kota Border Tote Gray

【JOHN SMEDLEY】

JOHN SMEDLEY brings a touch of fashion with its melt-in-your-hands material.

ー Made with Sea Island cotton

The cotton polo shirts made by this long-established British knitwear maker use Sea Island cotton.

Sea Island cotton refers to raw cotton renowned as the finest of the extra-long staple cottons, prized for their long, superior fibers.

Sea Island cotton requires a suitable climate, soil, and precise agricultural techniques,

and it's said to grow only in places where all these conditions come together. As proof of its high quality, the British royal family is said to have even had a custom of

encouraging the use of Sea Island cotton.

— A beautifully smooth, glossy silhouette.

This Sea Island cotton produces soft, fine yarns, resulting in what's called fine gauge knitwear,

a finely knitted fabric. It's characterized by a distinctive sheen and a beautifully smooth, glossy silhouette.

— The polo shirt as a fashion item

The beauty of JOHN SMEDLEY polo shirts lies not in the functionality of sportswear, but in

the way they elevate the polo shirt into a true fashion item.

Another key point is the narrow-opening collar known as the "English polo collar."

This is the perfect material and shape for anyone who prefers a refined polo shirt over a sporty one.

JOHN SMEDLEY polo shirts are made for "men," but

a size S fits perfectly at the shoulders even on a woman who is 158cm tall, so we encourage you to try one.

Polo shirt: JOHN SMEDLEY / Men's S3798 30G Polo Knit

Bottoms: KELE CLOTHING / FABA Knit Pants

Hat: pcnq / HAT01

Watch: ROSENDAHL / ARNE JACOBSEN Watch CITY HALL

【Nigel Cabourn】

Nigel Cabourn's polo shirts are all about material and color.

— JAPAN COLLECTION

These men's POLO shirts, finished in an exquisitely subtle vintage-inspired color, combine pigment dyeing with a special dyeing method

to recreate, in a modern form, the distinctive natural color variation of the past.

The line known as the JAPAN Collection features items made with distinctive fabrics that can only be produced in Japan,

using dyeing and processing techniques that can only be achieved there.

— The snugly gathered sleeve shape

The sleeves of Nigel Cabourn's polo shirts feature a ribbed design.

Gathering the sleeves keeps them from flapping around during movement.

This idea is said to have come from sports involving vigorous movement.

Nigel Cabourn's polo shirts are also made for "men," but

a size 44 doesn't look out of place on a woman, either. We also recommend styling it with an oversized fit. 

Polo shirt: Nigel Cabourn / Men's POLO Shirt

Bottoms: FACTORY / Peruvian Cotton Sarouel Pants

Sunglasses: IZIPIZI / SUN KAHKI

▼Click here for the【T-shirts / Cut-and-sew】category, which includes polo shirts