A Total Brand Coordination That Conveys a Distinct Worldview

A "total brand" refers to a brand that, without limiting itself to particular items or materials,

creates a wide range of items based on its own unique worldview.

Many such brands offer everything from tops to bottoms, which means

one of their defining features is the ability to put together a full coordinated look within a single brand.

Of course, each individual item also reflects the brand's own particular attention to detail,

so pairing pieces with clothes you already own, or gradually adding new seasonal items

to your wardrobe over time, is a way of enjoying clothing selection that is unique to total brands.

This time, we introduce two total brands: Nigel Cabourn

and HAVERSACK.

Both offer items for men and women, ranging from tops to bottoms.

First, we'd like to introduce a brand born in England: Nigel Cabourn.

Nigel Cabourn launched his own brand while still in university,

and has been designing garments for more than 40 years since.

The cold, windy environment of northern England has been

a major source of inspiration in his design work, and to this day

the brand has maintained its base in northern England without ever moving.

Products created based on his vast vintage collection

pursue fabrics and design details that remain unswayed by passing trends.

The vintage clothing Nigel has collected over the years

is said to now number more than 4,000 pieces.

Clothing tends to suffer damage over time from heat, dryness, and other elements as it's worn,

but the items Nigel has collected—including British military test samples,

European and American military wear and workwear from the 1910s to the 1950s,

and clothing worn by explorers—are notable for their extremely high durability.

The appeal of clothes that can truly be worn for years on end, the kind that makes the term "vintage" make sense,

forms the foundation of Nigel Cabourn's approach to making clothes.

■Highly Functional Military Wear, Preserved As-Is

Clothing based on garments worn by soldiers

has, above all, the appeal of being highly functional in its design as military wear.

Many Nigel Cabourn items make use of such functionality

while applying design touches suited to the present day.

One such example is the men's BRITISH ARMY linen shirt,

with its placket that widens toward the hem.

Based on a shirt adopted by the British Army during World War II,

it uses linen not simply for softness in the fabric, but also to create a moderate stiffness

that leaves a gap between the fabric and the skin, allowing body heat to escape.

The distinctive placket design, meanwhile, reflects careful consideration for the "tucked-in" style of the era—

preventing the fabric from bunching up while also keeping the hem from coming untucked and looking messy.

The brand's signature NARROW chino pants.

These are finished in a high-density fabric made using extra-long staple cotton.

Thanks to this high density, the fabric has a fine texture with fiber joints that are barely visible, along with minimal fuzz—one of its key appeals.

Furthermore, a process called cold mercerizing

tightens the fibers to eliminate excess sheen, so that with years of wear,

the fabric is designed to develop a texture unique to vintage pieces.

■A Sense of Vintage Revealed Through Layered Color

Look closely, and you'll catch glimpses of the fabric's distinctive character—

a hallmark of Nigel Cabourn items.

This men's POLO shirt appears, at first glance, to be a simple polo shirt, but

the combined use of pigment dyeing and a special dyeing method produces a distinctive fluctuation of color.

In darker shades such as OLIVE, you may notice a faintly reddish tinge in the thread's color

showing through. This kind of color variation differs from piece to piece,

allowing you to enjoy a texture with a distinct vintage feel.

■Attention to Detail, Starting from the Thread

The women's short-sleeve basque shirt, with its refreshing striped pattern that evokes summer.

Made primarily from cotton, this basque shirt uses a sturdy thread inspired

by the ropes once used in the navy.

While woven fabrics often use single yarns or two-ply yarns twisted together from single strands,

this basque shirt uses a five-ply yarn, twisted from no fewer than five single strands.

By twisting together many strands, much like a rope, the fabric gains strength

while still achieving a supple, soft feel.

The eye-catching patch on the shoulder is based on 1940s British Navy knitwear,

where a reinforcing panel that was once placed on the inside of the collar has been moved to the outside, becoming one of this item's distinguishing features.

Here's one more item for women.

This is a 4-pocket cropped-length linen denim pants, made from 100% linen.

These pants, notable for their striking wide silhouette, are based on

These denim pants were made based on the ones children used to wear.

While creating a boyish innocence,

the slightly glossy fabric and the decorative belt on the waist enhance a grown-up sense of style,

finishing them into a look with just the right amount of relaxed ease.

■A total coordination for enjoying relaxed time on your days off

Clothes that let you feel the sensation of "breaking in," of gradually fitting your own body—

that's what Nigel Cabourn's clothing offers.

On days off, I want to wrap myself in clothes with a relaxed silhouette.

Men's coordinate:

Men's BRITISH ARMY Linen Shirt YELLOW

Men's NARROW Chino Pants OLIVE

1135 Men's Mesh Slip-On SALVIA SUEDE (JOYKS)

Women's coordinate:

Short Sleeve Basque Shirt NAVY

4-Pocket Cropped Length Linen Denim Pants OFF WHITE

Strap Sandals BEIGE (ITALO CARLI)

Canvas Mini Tote Gray (HERITAGE LEATHER CO.)

HAVERSACK is a fashion brand born in Japan that started in 2001.

Under designer Shuji Norihide, the brand produces various lines of clothing

built around the theme of "making clothes capable of becoming vintage."

Norihide originally worked introducing overseas brand products to Japan.

Having come to realize firsthand that some products remain loved unchanged over time,

he launched a collection dedicated to Japanese-made items unswayed by passing trends.

The brand has since evolved into one held in high regard by the fashion world across Europe, starting with Britain.

Bearing a sense of newness, yet destined to become vintage through continued wear—

that is the kind of anticipation HAVERSACK clothing inspires.

By incorporating classic patterns and sewing them with meticulous care,

the clothes become ones that never grow tiresome, minimizing the deterioration that comes with the passage of time,

and are crafted with careful thought given to how they appear both on their own,

and when worn on the body.

Nothing showy, but something you come to appreciate the more closely you look,

and truly understand once you wear it—that is the appeal of these clothes you can genuinely feel.

■Bringing out the best in the fabric

One of HAVERSACK's signature pieces—

the Men's LenoCloth Shirt, featuring a round collar with a chin strap in a round-collar chin-strap style.

The fabric is made using leno weave, in which the warp threads cross over the weft threads

as they are woven in, so the surface appears to have a continuous chain of crossed shapes,

and a distinct texture emerges on the surface.

Because the threads are thicker, the weave tends to be relatively coarse, which enhances breathability.

Made of cotton and linen, the Men's LenoCloth Shirt has a fresh look that makes it perfect for the hot season.

Charming even just hanging on its own, and elegantly put-together once worn—

this CottonLawn One-Piece seems to embody exactly what HAVERSACK aims for in its clothing.

"Lawn" refers to a thin, tightly woven fabric, resulting in cloth with relatively good body.

With its smooth touch and faint sense of sheerness, it's ideal for the warmer season.

The CottonLawn One-Piece has frills at the three-quarter-length cuffs,

and its button and lace details somehow evoke medieval European dresses.

Yet it isn't overly sweet, so wearing it alone still gives an elegant impression.

■Pursued to the very fabric itself

Here's another men's shirt that's easy to mix into any wardrobe.

The Men's DobbyWideStripe Shirt is a type known as "pin oxford" (pinpoint oxford).

Oxford fabric is woven using a basket weave that combines multiple warp and weft threads,

and pin oxford expresses this same weave with even finer threads,

resulting in a softer, glossier finish.

The Men's DobbyWideStripe Shirt, patterned with stripes of differing widths in white and navy,

is a design that works both in business settings and casual ones.

It also looks stylish on women when worn oversized and paired with slim-fitting bottoms.

The Men's SaltShrinking Burberry Pants, with a crisp center crease.

Sporty yet refined—

these pants, with their truly exquisite balance of taste, are treated with a salt-shrinking process.

This process involves soaking the fabric in a solution called salt-shrink liquid, causing the fabric to contract

and develop its distinctive crinkled texture (shibo).

The fabric's sense of body combined with a certain softness

is born from this very process.

■A total coordination for outings, sometimes dressed up

HAVERSACK clothing that freely changes its mood depending on how you style it.

A refined coordination made possible only by fine fabric and materials.

Men's coordinate:

Men's DobbyWideStripe Shirt Navy

Men's Salt Shrinking Burberry Pants Off Beige

1052 Men's Tassel Slip-on TAUPE SUEDE（JOYKS）

Women's Coordinate：

Cotton Lawn One-piece Black

Belt Espadrille Sandal GBE（gaimo）

Basket S/BL（TOINO ABEL）

Bracelet B01 BROWN（Monica Johansson）

Bracelet B04 BROWN（Monica Johansson）