A World Woven by Color and Pattern: Unraveling the Art of Nassen (Fabric Printing)

You may not be familiar with the word nassen, but if we say "printing," you'll probably know what we mean. Nassen refers to a dyeing technique in which a paste dye—dye dissolved in a starch paste—is used to draw patterns onto fabric; the dye is then fixed and the fabric washed in water to complete the process. Because this technique makes it possible to depict multiple colors and patterns on a single-color fabric, nassen has been used around the world, mainly for clothing. In Japan, yuzen dyeing of kimono is one example. Although dyeing requires a large amount of good-quality water, many different techniques have been developed and passed down over the years.

Scarves Hand-Dyed by Artisans

One region in Japan where the nassen industry developed is Yokohama in Kanagawa Prefecture. Since the port of Yokohama opened in 1859, silk had been one of Japan's principal export items. At the time, demand for Japanese raw silk was high, and silk handkerchiefs made in Japan attracted attention at exhibitions such as the Yokohama Kaiko Exhibition and the Melbourne Exhibition. As the raw silk market grew in the port town of Yokohama, the nassen industry developed alongside it. In the early Showa era, scarves became a popular fashion item, and they became a specialty product of Yokohama.

Maruka, a long-established scarf maker, is currently the only company in Japan that handles everything in-house, from planning and design to factory production and delivery, continuing to create meticulously crafted scarves using tezassen (hand-printing). Just as Yokohama once connected Japan to the world and brought vibrant color to the country, Maruka launched its factory brand, the PORT, with the wish to add color to everyday life and to offer prints suited to the present day.  

The scarves from the PORT are most appealing for their vividly bright colors and pop, contemporary motifs. What catches the eye is the consistently themed patterns and the skill with which even the finest outlines are beautifully colored. These scarves are produced using a technique called tezassen, in which each color is hand-dyed using a separate stencil.

■What Is Tezassen?

First, the stencils are prepared—one stencil is needed for each color used. A dye paste is mixed, and the fabric is stretched over the printing table.

Next comes the actual dyeing process. Dye is poured under the stencil, transferring the pattern onto the fabric. This step is what is properly called nassen. A spatula-like tool called a squeegee is used to carefully print each area, one section at a time. As mentioned, since each color requires a different stencil, the dye and stencil must be matched correctly, and consistent pressure must be applied—making this a process that truly tests the artisan's experience and skill.

Once the nassen process is complete, heat is applied to the fabric to fix the colors. The fabric is then washed to remove the paste, and since this step requires a large amount of water, having a large river nearby—as in Yokohama—is an essential factor for the nassen industry. After washing comes the final sewing stage. This sewing process, too, is done entirely by hand, piece by piece. It is said that by hand-rolling the fabric and sewing it evenly, artisans create scarves with a soft, plump quality and superior finish.

▼The rounded edges are the result of the sewing technique

■Wearing Pop Motifs

The scarves from the PORT express fine, delicate patterns. The lack of bleeding, the nearly uniform coloring, and the delicate dyeing are all the result of skilled artisans' techniques. Another appeal of the PORT scarves lies in their original, refined designs, given names such as "CAKE," "HAND DRAWING," and "CUBE."

Scarf / ANCHOR features anchor motifs scattered across the fabric. The pattern might seem a bit bold at first glance, but once wrapped around the neck, the anchor motifs come to look like dots or crossing lines, adding an elegant accent. Since it's a large scarf, you can fold it narrowly and wrap it compactly, or simply tie it loosely for an effect that elongates the silhouette. This wide range of styling options is one of the defining characteristics of scarves.

Scarf / CAKE, featuring a bright and cheerful cupcake design, looks best folded diagonally and draped casually around the neck so that its beautiful colors can be seen. Pairing it with white or blue clothing—colors used in the scarf itself—keeps it from standing out too much. It also looks adorable when wrapped around accessories like bags or hats.

Classic Bandanas That Shine with Delicate Patterns

Now, looking beyond Japan, there are many regions around the world where, like Yokohama, nassen techniques have developed over a long history. Switzerland is one such place. As a mountainous region blessed with good-quality water, Switzerland provided an environment well suited to the nassen industry.

By the 17th century, Switzerland reportedly had more than 60 nassen factories. Among them, the Blumar company began in 1828 in the small town of Glarner in the Schwanden region of Switzerland, and has since been a long-established maker renowned for its outstanding nassen techniques. GLARNER TUECHLI, Blumar's own brand, makes use of the dyeing techniques cultivated over its long history to produce bandanas and other fabric goods.

GLARNER TUECHLI bandanas are beautiful for their rich range of colors and their delicate color combinations and dyeing. In the company's early days, it's said that experienced artisans hand-printed every piece using wood blocks carved from cherry or oak wood with intricate designs. One is first struck by the delicacy of the designs, and then by the skill involved in layering multiple colors onto a single piece of fabric to create such beauty.

▼A woodblock used at the time

From around 1860, mechanization progressed and stable-quality dyes came into use—Blumar has continued production while adapting to the changing times. Even as production methods have changed, the company has held fast to its own techniques and top-tier quality, continuing to create beautiful bandanas found nowhere else.

■Wearing the classic paisley with elegance

When it comes to classic bandana patterns, paisley is the one that comes to mind. There are various theories about the origin of paisley, but it is said to be modeled after plants from the natural world that never wither, such as pine cones and coconuts, and to symbolize vitality. The paisley pattern adorned the shawls worn by courts and royalty as a symbol of Persian art, and in the 19th century, the town of Paisley in Scotland became a center for weaving fabric with this pattern—which is said to be how the name took hold. 

With its striking motif reminiscent of a curved jewel or a leaf, paisley is a pattern that never fades with time. When you wrap it around your neck, simply changing its direction—facing forward or to the side—can create a different impression. Even without the glamour of an accessory, a paisley bandana blends naturally into any outfit and somehow conveys a sense of refinement.

Toile Peinte, Preserving French Tradition

The last brand we'd like to introduce is Les Olivades, a textile brand born in France. They offer printed textiles that beautifully showcase natural motifs such as plants.

The roots of Les Olivades trace back to the 15th century, when Indian chintz first arrived in Europe. This chintz, featuring extremely intricate patterns dyed onto cotton fabric, became enormously popular in Europe. Using this Indian chintz as a prototype, Europe went on to develop the production of printed cotton cloth known as toile peinte, giving rise to techniques for hand-dyeing patterns of natural flora and fauna.

Even as mechanization advanced with the tides of the times, Léonard Cauchi, a printing craftsman, established a dye works in the Provence region of France in 1818. In 1948, Pierre Boudin developed it into the SAIT company, and later, in 1977, the "Les Olivades" brand was launched. Its appeal lies in printing techniques—based on more than 300 designs—that evoke the culture, tradition, and rich nature of Provence. Furthermore, by using dyes made from Provençal plants such as anemone, madder, olive, sunflower, lavender, and rose, the brand has established a unique position all its own.

■Inspired by Nature

Every pattern printed on Les Olivades textiles evokes the natural landscape of France, and each individual motif carries its own meaning.

For example, this crest-like pattern is a motif representing the bee, the symbol of Napoleon himself. It's said to be named "BONIS" because the design originated from a bedspread pattern gifted to Les Olivades by the venerable Bonis family of Provence. On the shirt dress featuring the BONIS pattern, a touch of gold subtly placed at the center of the motif adds a touch of glamour.

This refreshing V-neck dress features a delicate, eye-catching pattern called "BANDES BONIS." Flowers, leaves, and other plant motifs, along with paisley designs, are arranged in border-like stripes, evoking the abundant nature of Provence. It's an elaborate print pattern with rhythmic variations. 

And here we have a rounded motif inspired by pine cones. It's named "MAZAN," after a small village in the Luberon region—the lavender country made famous by Peter Mayle's novel "A Year in Provence." Just tracing the origins of the name feels like reading a fairy tale. The stand collar shirt featuring this pattern has a charming quality thanks to its rounded motif, while still conveying a classic impression.