Delicious tamagoyaki, made simple. The copper tamagoyaki pan from Nakamura Doki Seisakusho

The tamagoyaki pan from Nakamura Doki Seisakusho, a longtime favorite at ZUTTO, is a pan made specifically for tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelette), with a distinctive rectangular shape. When you first start using it, the copper and the tin lining inside gleam beautifully, and as you use it more, its appearance takes on a deeper, more characterful quality over time.

That said, hearing that a pan is made "specifically" for tamagoyaki might make it sound like something of a luxury. Tamagoyaki can, of course, be made in an ordinary round frying pan too, so some of you may wonder whether it's really necessary to have a dedicated pan for it.

Yet the reason so many people choose this pan lies in its design, which makes the most of copper's properties. Together with a staff member who actually uses the Nakamura Doki Seisakusho tamagoyaki pan regularly, let's take a closer look at what makes copper pans so appealing.

A copper pan that spreads heat evenly and lasts a long time

On the left, the Kansai-style pan; on the right, the Kanto-style tamagoyaki pan

One of copper's defining characteristics is its high thermal conductivity. What this means in practice is that once the pan is placed over heat, the warmth spreads "quickly" and "evenly." In other words, it's the ideal material for foods that need to be cooked fast and without hot spots—and tamagoyaki, which you want to roll up thin and neat, is a perfect example. Because heat doesn't build up unevenly, there's no need to worry about certain spots burning while others stay undercooked.

The inside is coated with baked-on tin

Convenient non-stick pans, such as Teflon-coated ones, gradually lose their non-stick effect after about a year of use, eventually requiring replacement. Copper pans, by contrast, can be used for many years if handled and cared for properly. These two qualities—high thermal conductivity and long-lasting durability—are the greatest appeal of a copper pan.

Making tamagoyaki with a copper pan in its third year of use

Now, let's look at how to use a copper pan and what makes it so appealing, together with a staff member who has been using a tamagoyaki pan regularly.

This is the tamagoyaki pan this staff member has been using for three years now. "If you compare it to a brand-new pan, it might come as a bit of a surprise to see how it looks," she says—and indeed, the whole surface has taken on a noticeably deeper color compared to a new pan.

What prompted this staff member to buy a tamagoyaki pan was a frustration with making tamagoyaki in a round frying pan: the egg would inevitably spread out and end up flat, never looking quite as appetizing as she wanted. She also mentions that she had the chance to try tamagoyaki made in a copper pan at a certain shop in Tsukiji, and that the tamagoyaki was so surprisingly light and fluffy and delicious that she never forgot it—which was another reason she decided to buy one. These days, she uses the pan about once or twice a week, and always reaches for it whenever she makes tamagoyaki. Let's ask her about what it's actually like to use.

Point 1: Season the pan with oil

For the first three to five times I used it, the egg would stick to the surface of the pan when I tried to roll it, and it would end up falling apart. But after that, I had no trouble at all. Looking back, I think that early period was simply something you have to get through.

At that shop in Tsukiji I mentioned earlier, I actually got to watch the tamagoyaki being made, and I noticed that before pouring in each layer of egg, the chef would carefully rub oil into the pan. In other words, he was creating a thin film of oil on the surface so the egg wouldn't stick and would spread smoothly. When I tried making it myself, I realized that seasoning the pan with oil is the single most important step.

Another cause of sticking is not letting the pan heat up enough beforehand. Rather than pouring in the egg right after adding oil to a heated pan, it's important to wait until the pan is warm enough that you can clearly feel the heat when you hold your hand near it, and only then pour in the egg.

While the oil hasn't fully seasoned into the pan yet, it's a good idea to rub in oil each time before pouring in the egg, not just at the very start. Soak a paper towel with oil and rub it over the surface of the pan.

Point 2: Once heated, low heat is best

I'd say it's the heat setting. Of course, this comes down to personal preference to some degree, but I'd recommend low heat. Copper heats up so quickly that if you're not careful and use medium heat or higher, as you might with another pan, the egg can burn, or the pan itself can get dangerously hot.

As for the steps: heat the pan over a flame no larger than the bottom of the pan, then immediately rub in the oil. Once the pan is warmed through, low heat is plenty. Even on low heat, the pan is hot enough that pouring in the beaten egg makes a satisfying sizzling sound.

Since heat spreads evenly through a copper pan, cooking with just the right amount of heat gives you a beautiful tamagoyaki with little color unevenness. Try it a few times, and you'll get a feel for the right heat setting.

The pleasure of rolling it up, round and round

Here's what it actually looks like when our staff makes tamagoyaki. Even a staff member who isn't particularly good with their hands was able to make it beautifully, with the egg not sticking at all, just as you can see.

Tamagoyaki that delights the palate

Tamagoyaki is a dish whose seasoning varies from household to household. You can keep it simple with just salt, or make it deliciously sweet by adding sugar. A version gently flavored with dashi, which spreads softly through the dish, is also popular and very characteristic of Japanese cooking.

No matter how you season it, what tamagoyaki made in a copper pan always has in common is its "fluffiness." The texture is gentle on the palate, with the natural flavor of egg spreading softly in your mouth—a sensation that's hard to achieve with any other type of pan. If you take your time and roll the egg into thin layers, it will come out beautifully and delicious.

Bonus: An Easy Stir-Fry for One More Dish

We've been introducing this tamagoyaki pan as a tool for making tamagoyaki, but it can also be used for quick stir-fries. Because the pan is small, it's handy when you want one more small dish for a single-serving bento or for breakfast. After making a stir-fry, you can quickly wipe the pan clean with a paper towel and go straight into making tamagoyaki, which saves time and cuts down on dishes to wash.

Please note that when cooking with a copper pan, food heats up quickly. Be careful with your heat setting when stir-frying so nothing burns.

Before Using Your Tamagoyaki Pan for the First Time: How to Season It with Oil

Before using your tamagoyaki pan for the first time, please season it with oil following the steps below.

1) Pour cooking oil into the pan up to about 70% of its capacity.

2) Heat the pan over low to medium heat. It's about right when the surface of the oil ripples gently and small bubbles start to form. Since the tin lining inside will melt at high temperatures, please be careful with the heat setting.

3) Let it simmer like this for 4 to 5 minutes. Please don't take your eyes off the pan while it's on the heat.

4) Turn off the heat and let it cool slightly. Transfer the oil to an oil pot or similar container. Use a paper towel to rub the remaining oil into the surface of the pan. Once this is done, the pan is ready to use.

*Please be careful, as the pan will be extremely hot after heating.

How to Care for Your Tamagoyaki Pan

Proper care after use is essential for using your tamagoyaki pan for a long time. Please keep the following points in mind so you can enjoy it for years to come.

・Wash the entire pan with hot water and a soft sponge immediately after use.

*Please do not use dish soap when washing the inside of the pan. Using soap will strip away the oil film.

*Scrubbing with a cleanser or a hard scouring pad will damage the tin lining inside, so please always use a soft sponge.

*Leaving food inside the pan can cause it to rust.

・After washing, wipe off the moisture briefly with a dry cloth, then heat the pan over low heat on the stove for about 10 to 20 seconds to dry off any remaining moisture.

*Never leave the pan on the heat empty for an extended period, as this will cause the tin lining to melt.

・Once completely dry, store the pan. If you've just started using it and the oil hasn't fully seasoned into the pan yet, work some oil into the surface before storing it.

▽Nakamura Dohki Seisakusho Tamagoyaki Pans Available Here