How Time Works Its Magic: Growing a Pair of Cordovan Shoes

This time, we're taking a look at shoes made from "cordovan" leather.

When you hear the word cordovan, you probably think of it as a high-quality leather

used for belts, wallets, and other small leather goods.

Shoes made lavishly from this cordovan leather undergo beautiful aging over time,

growing into companions you'll want by your side for ten, even twenty years.

Here, we introduce the appeal of cordovan shoes and how to care for them.

Now, without further ado, let's introduce two pairs of shoes.

Please pay attention to what's different between the two pairs.

At first glance, they look like completely different shoes, but

in fact, both pairs are shoes made from a leather called cordovan, crafted by chausser.

The shoe in a natural beige color is still brand new and unworn,

while the one that has changed to brown is the very same shoe after more than a year of wear.

The color and shine are so different that it's hard to believe they're the same shoes, but

shoes made using the cordovan portion of horsehide—a natural, undyed material—

have this distinctive trait of gradually developing such changes the more they are worn.

Let's take a closer look at this transformation right away.

【What Is Cordovan?】

Cordovan is a type of horsehide.

While the name may be unfamiliar to many, its beautiful shine and

the extremely labor-intensive method of extracting it have earned it nicknames like "the diamond of leathers" or "the king of leather."

Cordovan doesn't come from the surface skin of the horse, but rather from a fibrous inner layer, about 2mm thick,

known as the cordovan layer, which appears when the back of the horse's rump is carefully shaved down.

The amount of cordovan that can be taken from a single horse is extremely limited, which is also why it's known for its high rarity.

Despite its scarcity, why is this type of leather especially favored by leather enthusiasts?

The answer lies in the unique characteristics that cordovan possesses.

We tend to picture leather goods as gradually softening, gaining scuffs and wrinkles, and becoming more supple with use.

On the other hand, without proper care, dirt becomes noticeable, and the leather's natural charm—

its luster and softness—fails to come through.

Cordovan certainly shares these general leather qualities, but what sets it apart from other leathers is its hardness.

In terms of hardness and durability, cordovan is said to be two to three times tougher than cowhide, making it extraordinarily sturdy.

It resists scratches from light rubbing, and since it's originally a napped leather, polishing is said to smooth out the surface.

Indeed, even on a pair of cordovan shoes worn for nearly a year, the leather surface shows almost no scratches or stains.

For those who enjoy wearing leather shoes, this high durability and resistance to damage is quite appealing.

Another notable feature of cordovan is the fineness of its grain.

Its supple, extremely fine-textured surface reflects light softly, creating a beauty with a sense of luxury.

With consistent, careful care, it gains even more luster over time, transforming to a state that truly deserves the word "radiant."

The way its color deepens into a rich brown is also a beauty unique to leather.

Achieving this beautiful sheen requires more than just wearing the shoes—regular care matters too.

Left: A brand-new pair of cordovan shoes, in the leather's original untouched color. The surface has a matte appearance.

Right: As aging progresses, a "shine" emerges, giving the shoes a glossy look. The color has changed to an amber hue.

【Caring for Cordovan Shoes】

To grow a pair of cordovan shoes beautifully, regular care is, above all, essential.

According to chausser, when cordovan shoes are brand new,

it's important to care for them frequently—roughly once for every two times you wear them.

・A shoe brush

・A soft cloth (an old T-shirt will also work)

・A leather cleaner for removing dirt

・A moisturizing cream for leather

1. Remove the laces and insert a shoe tree so the creases from wear are stretched out.

2. Use a brush to remove large particles of dust from the surface.

Use three different brushes as needed. Shoe Brush Set by G.B.KENT

3. Use a leather cleaner to remove oily dirt and any old leather cream.

Dust tends to accumulate especially in the creases that form on the leather's surface from wear,

and if left as is, this can cause darkening, so be sure to remove dirt through brushing and cleaner.

For removing dirt from leather. Rader Oil by TAPIR

4. Take a small amount of leather moisturizing cream on a soft cloth, and spread it evenly over the entire leather surface, working it in.

Infuses the leather with oil and brings out its shine. Rader Pflege Cream by TAPIR

5. Once the cream has been absorbed, buff with a soft, dry cloth, and a beautiful shine will gradually appear.

The greatest enemies of cordovan shoes are dryness and water exposure.

Although cordovan leather itself is sturdy, its fibers run in a single direction,

so if it becomes too dry, the leather may tear.

Choose a cream with excellent moisturizing properties, and be diligent about regular care.

Also, exposure to water can cause stains and mold.

Please avoid wearing them on rainy days, and if they do get wet, dry them thoroughly before

caring for them using the steps above to keep them moisturized.

【Cordovan shoes from chausser that feel great to wear】

Because cordovan requires a generous amount of high-quality leather, it inevitably comes at a higher price.

When choosing cordovan shoes, you'll want a pair that not only looks good but also feels comfortable to wear.

The cordovan shoes from chausser that we're introducing this time

incorporate a number of details designed with the wearer in mind.

When it comes to shoes, "making the most of good leather" is really about "creating shoes that are both comfortable and beautiful."

We'd like to introduce the thoughtful details built into chausser shoes,

so please take this as a reference if you're looking for cordovan shoes.

First, these cordovan shoes are made using a technique called the Goodyear welt construction.

Shoes are generally made by combining parts such as the upper (the outer leather portion), the insole (the inner part that touches the sole of the foot), and the outsole (the outer part that forms the bottom of the shoe),

along with a component called the filler, which is placed between the insole and outsole.

Shoes made using the Goodyear welt construction

don't join the upper and outsole directly. Instead, a welt (a narrow strip of leather attached around the outer edge of the shoe) is sandwiched between them

and stitched in place, which means the outsole can be removed easily.

This offers the advantage that, even if the outsole wears down, it can be replaced.

It would be such a waste if the cordovan leather on the upper developed beautiful aging,

only for the sole to become worn and uneven, ruining the look and making the shoes uncomfortable to walk in.

When choosing shoes made with quality cordovan leather,

whether the sole can be easily replaced is also an important point to check.

You might also assume that, because the cordovan used for the upper is quite firm,

cordovan shoes would be hard and take a long time to break in and feel comfortable,

but when made with Goodyear welt construction, as with chausser's cordovan shoes,

cork is placed between the insole and outsole, which helps the shoe conform more easily to the sole of the foot.

The outsole is also made using a process that infuses it with more oil than typical leather shoes, allowing it to flex smoothly in line with your gait,

so you can feel at ease even when you need to walk for long periods in leather shoes.

【A pair of shoes worth owning】

It might not be an exaggeration to say that well-cared-for shoes shape the first impression a person makes.

Cordovan shoes work well in business settings where suits are worn, lending a polished, put-together impression.

The natural color they have when first worn pairs nicely with lighter-colored clothing.

They lend a fresh, crisp look starting from your feet.

While cordovan shoes tend to give a somewhat formal impression,

they surprisingly pair well with denim and casual shirts too.

It's also nice to enjoy coordinating outfits around shoes that have developed character over time through aging.

【About chausser】

The brand was founded by designer and owner Yoichi Maeda.

Influenced by his father, who was a made-to-order shoemaker, he held a longing for shoemaking from an early age

and entered the shoe industry early in his career.

After working in various roles focused on getting shoes into people's hands, he became involved in product planning and learned the craft of shoemaking.

It was through this wealth of experience that the shoe maker chausser was born.

The brand name means "to wear (shoes)" in French.

Based in Tokyo, the brand is now sold in seven countries around the world.

The hope is to create shoes so timeless that, thirty years from now, someone spotting a pair of chausser shoes in a secondhand shop

would still want to wear them.

And with proper care, the aim is for them to become "shoes you can wear for 30 years." It's with this vision in mind that chausser strives to make shoes people will want to keep wearing for a long time to come.  

chausser shoes are not made with mass production in mind.

They have a warmth and charm that mass-produced shoes lack.

Even after leaving the hands of the craftsman, they continue to gain depth and character as they age alongside the person wearing them,

eventually becoming something truly one of a kind. Perhaps that is the real appeal of chausser shoes.  

※The cordovan shoes mainly featured this time will no longer be available once current stock runs out.

In addition to cordovan, chausser also offers shoes that make the most of the distinctive qualities of various other leathers,

so please be sure to take a look at the full item list page.

>>>Go to the chausser item list page