A cool, grown-up way of dressing. We asked the designer about the details behind the motorcycle coat that's drawing attention right now.

This time we're featuring ZUTTO's "Ventile Gabardine Motorcycle Coat." With a look that brings together the clean impression of a trench coat and the cool edge of a military coat, this may be exactly the kind of coat many of you have been hoping for.

The motorcycle coat, which carries a hint of vintage charm, was designed based on the coats worn by French army motorcycle units. We spoke directly with the designer about this piece.

Worn with the Ventile Gabardine x Waffle Military Skirt from the same series.

The Deep, Considered Design of the Motorcycle Coat

No discussion of this coat's appeal would be complete without touching on the history and design of the motorcycle coat itself. Let's start by tracing the hidden secrets behind its popularity.

The motorcycle coat is a type of military coat that originated in France around 1940 for use by the army. As the name suggests, it was designed as an oversized, roomy coat meant to be worn in layers by motorcycle troops.

Its distinctive beauty and striking presence have captivated many contemporary designers. Coats from famous maison brands are said to draw on the motorcycle coat as a design source as well. For anyone with a sharp eye for fashion, it may well be one of those coats that catches your breath the moment you see it.

The motorcycle coat has a cool, sharp quality that's hard to come by in women's wear, along with a modern freshness reminiscent of a carefully preserved vintage piece. To bring it into this autumn and winter's wardrobe, ZUTTO created its own original version.

— It gives an impression similar to a trench coat, but with just a bit of a different spice added, it becomes so stylish. Why did you choose the motorcycle coat as your design source?

Designer: I think many people reach for a trench coat as their go-to coat for early spring or autumn, but I wanted to make a coat that's more casual and less stiff than a trench coat. After considering various designs and levels of comfort, the motorcycle coat is what I ultimately landed on.

Designer: This coat has an oversized silhouette that you can just throw on without worrying about bulk, so it's easy to wear even for a quick errand—something you could really wear every day. There's also enough room underneath to layer a thick knit or sweater, so I'd be happy if people chose it not only for early spring or early autumn but also as a winter coat.

— What does "Ventile Gabardine" in the item name mean?

Designer: "Ventile Gabardine" is the name of the fabric. It's a 100% cotton material originally developed as a highly functional water-resistant fabric for British Royal Air Force pilots.

— It's water-resistant even though it's cotton? (Surprised!)

Designer: That's right. Since it's a material that was used by the military, it's a practical, tough fabric built to withstand hard use. The fact that it's cotton yet offers excellent water resistance, moisture permeability, and breathability makes it very easy to use for a coat, don't you think?

— Among all the high-performance fabrics out there, how did you end up choosing Ventile Gabardine?

Designer: If the fabric is too thin, it looks flimsy and can't create a beautiful silhouette, but if you go with something too thick, it can't be worn in spring or autumn... So I went looking for a fabric with just the right thickness and a good amount of body, and that's how I came across this one.

Designer: Actually, I was torn between this and a washi (Japanese paper)-based fabric. But in the end, considering the history of the motorcycle coat, I felt Ventile Gabardine was the better fit, so I went with this one.

— Is there a design detail you're especially fond of?

Designer: I really want people to take a close look at the fine details. Especially the belt, the collar, the chest pocket, and the sleeves.

Designer: The belt is designed to be threaded through two fasteners. That's really where the true coolness of the motorcycle coat lies, isn't it? It's full of military-vintage romance, and it's built so the waist cinches securely, keeping the coat from flapping around while riding a motorcycle. From a woman's perspective, it also gives definition to the waist, which keeps the silhouette from looking shapeless—that's another appeal.

Designer: The collar has a large fold-over and can also be worn standing up. It also comes with a chin warmer, giving it an authentic motorcycle coat design.

Designer: Next, let's talk about the chest pocket. In an authentic motorcycle coat, this pocket is normally designed to pass through so you can reach the pocket of the jacket you're wearing underneath. But we felt a regular pocket would be easier to use, so we made it a proper, functional pocket instead.

Designer: Finally, we paid close attention to the thickness of the sleeves. We finished them with a forward-leaning silhouette that draws a smooth curve when viewed from the side. Since there are tabs at the cuffs, cinching them in also looks nice.

Designer: This is originally a motorcycle coat made for people who ride motorcycles, and since I myself often get around by bike, I'd love to try wearing it the way it's meant to be used—riding a motorcycle in it! The back vent is cut deeper so it's easier to ride in. That's another important detail of a true motorcycle coat.

How to Style the Motorcycle Coat

With its A-line silhouette that flares toward the hem and the way the belt can be cinched, the motorcycle coat lets you enjoy a look with real definition. Its striking presence means its biggest appeal is that it pulls an outfit together instantly, even worn simply over a cut-and-sew top and denim.

— It's quite an oversized silhouette. Was there anything you paid particular attention to in terms of sizing?

Designer: Even though it's an oversized coat, if you make it too big the overall balance falls apart, so I was careful to get that balance just right.

— I'm 156cm, and the hem falls just below my knees—even though it's oversized, it didn't look sloppy at all; it gave a neat, put-together impression. I can see that comes from all those fine adjustments.

Designer: Actually, the first sample had sleeves and a body width that were too wide, giving too strong an impact, so we made careful adjustments to arrive at the current silhouette, which is now easy to wear for people of many different body types.

(BEIGE, height 162cm)

Knit: Royal Alpaca High-Neck Knit Pullover

Skirt: EASY KILT LONG (81cm) ROSSMUCK

Boots: Side Gore Boots CHELSEA BOOT 1829 Black

Bag: [Special Order] San Gabriel

— I often wear denim casually, so this coat seems like it would work great to add some polish. By the way, what kind of outfit would you like to wear it with?

Designer: I'd like to pair it with tailored pants and leather shoes for a look that feels somehow gentlemanly and cool. Sweats with chinos and sneakers would also work well. Or leaving the coat open, tying the belt behind, and pairing it with an A-line skirt could look nice too.

(KHAKI, height 162cm)

Top: Turtleneck Knit LEF193009

Pants: Unisex TRADITIONAL WORKER TROUSERS Work Pants BEIGE

Shoes: OFFICER SHOE 1831 Black

Bag: Shoulder Bag COLNE MINI

— It's perfect for heading out.

Designer: I'd love for people to throw it on and walk through town with real confidence. It would make me happy if it caught someone's eye as looking cool while window shopping in a stylish part of the city.

The coat comes in two colors: BEIGE, a basic shade that's easy to match with anything, and KHAKI, essential for military-style fashion. We've introduced a coat with a light, refreshing feel that's perfect for the changing of the seasons. Why not enjoy your autumn outings in this masculine, cool, grown-up motorcycle coat?

See the Ventile Gabardine Motorcycle Coat here