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【Brand Interview】A special gray edition of PATRICK STEPHAN's tofu bag arrives.

A bag you want to keep using with care, one that can truly stand the test of time. What makes that possible comes down to "a design and quality that transcend trends and can be cherished for years." Even in a world full of bags from high-end brands, that doesn't necessarily mean they hold value for everyone.

This time, we're featuring a bag from PATRICK STEPHAN, a brand created by a designer with experience at major fashion houses who deliberately chooses not to set a seasonal theme. We'll introduce this product, full of timeless appeal, along with an interview with the two people at Espace who handle production of all PATRICK STEPHAN items.

PATRICK STEPHAN's popular bag is back

▲The special-order color slate GRAY (left), and BLACK made with a new leather (right) *BLACK is no longer available

We had the leather shoulder bag tofu, which we previously carried, made in a special-order color, slate GRAY. This is a special item available exclusively at ZUTTO.

What is the tofu series?

Tofu—yes, as in the food. True to its name, this is a unique shoulder bag designed to evoke the image of tofu. By using soft sheepskin without any internal structure, the bag offers a soft, relaxed look and feel right from the start.

▲The special-order color slate GRAY. A soft hue that can even appear beige depending on how the light hits it.

Another point worth noting is that the back panel is made taller, and the strap fasteners are attached to the back of the bag rather than the sides. This design ensures the bag's form stays neat and doesn't collapse when worn crossbody.

▲Designed so that the box shape of the shoulder bag looks natural and beautiful.

This is a beautifully considered form, thought through not only for the beauty of the bag itself, but also for how it looks as part of the overall outfit, including the person wearing it.

In fact, this tofu series has been a long-running, popular line, evolving over the years with different materials and shapes. To learn more about the making of this special-order bag, we spoke with the two people at Espace who work directly with designer PATRICK to produce the items.

It's such a unique series name. How did the tofu series come about in the first place? Was it an idea from the French designer, PATRICK?

"That's right. The tofu series has been around since 2016, and PATRICK often draws on motifs that feel distinctly Japanese—the idea for this series, including the name, came from him. Maybe that's partly because he's French. He wanted to create a bag with a soft, simple shape, like tofu, and this is the very first sketch from that conversation."

▲One of the early sketches of the tofu series, pulled out from among the many filed sketches. Apparently it went through many revisions before reaching its final form.

"As the makers, our role is to try different approaches—suggesting this material or that construction—so we can bring his vision to life as faithfully as possible.

As for the size of this shoulder bag, though, it was actually our suggestion to try making it a bit smaller. A lot of bags from overseas end up too large for Japanese users, perhaps because of differences in body size. Back then, sacoches and similar bags weren't as common as they are now, so we proposed a size that would be easy for Japanese people to use in everyday life."

It really feels like the product came together through a back-and-forth between the two of you.

"Since we're building on the image inside his head, it can be tough to bring it to life sometimes (laughs), but we've never stopped valuing his own inspiration, and we've been making things together for over ten years now. From when a sketch like this comes in to when it becomes an actual product usually takes about six months to a year.

Both PATRICK and I have seen and experienced what goes on behind the scenes at big brands, but rather than setting a new theme and building a collection around it every season, we've come to think more about what suits the times, or what we genuinely feel like making at any given moment. You could say that deliberately not setting a concept is part of what makes us who we are."

I suppose that's what you'd call "making things that aren't swayed by trends." I'd like to ask something more specific: if you had to name a key point in designing this shoulder bag, what would it be?

"Making sure the hardware doesn't show at the front was something we really placed importance on. That's the part we thought about most in expressing that tofu-like quality, the softness of the leather. And we use soft, relaxed sheepskin. The version we made before had a glossy finish applied at the end, but this time we wanted a slightly different feel, so we went with a calmer, soft-matte leather. Both are Italian leathers, but from different tanneries."

▲When viewed from the front, not only the hardware but also the stitching is hidden, creating a design that lets the quality of the material and the simplicity of the construction stand out even more.

The tofu series comes in many variations and is clearly a popular line. What do you think people love about it?

"I think one big factor is that it can be chosen by anyone, regardless of gender. Not just with this tofu series, but across the brand as a whole, we're conscious of creating flat, gender-neutral designs.

Also, some people seem to appreciate the simple design that lets you really feel the quality of the leather, and the way it gradually transforms to fit you as you use it. When people hear "leather bag," some imagine stiff leather, but this tofu series in particular has a noticeable softness, and I think it pairs easily with any outfit."

That softness really comes through when you wear it crossbody. Actually, this is something I noticed again while working on this special order—looking at the PATRICK STEPHAN lineup, there does seem to be a lot of black, BLACK items. Is there a particular reason for that?

"That's partly a holdover from when we made a lot of mode-style items early on. Now, while some of that mode element remains, I think the brand has come to include a bit more of a softer nuance as well. With the changing times and shifts in what PATRICK wants to make, the brand's identity has gradually evolved too. But even through those changes, the stance of not drawing a line between men's and women's items, and instead making things anyone can use in a flat, equal way has stayed consistent, and I think that's naturally led to more black pieces."

"That said, even though we say 'black leather,' it's not all the same leather—we select the leather best suited to each product, so you can enjoy a different texture and expression with each one. This BLACK has a more matte look than the one we made before; we're using leather from a different tannery for it.Leather Shoulder Bag simple2It's the same leather as that one."

Leather Shoulder Bag simple2

This simple2 is actually a bag you use yourself, isn't it? I imagine the leather was originally soft, but it's developed even more character now. How long have you been using it?

"About two months now. I like that the gusset is thin, so it doesn't get bulky. It's fairly large, too—it easily holds A4-size items and even a laptop. It's also convenient because I can carry it together with another shoulder bag without it looking cluttered; it stays neat."

Being able to carry multiple bags together is possible precisely because the design is so clean. What kind of clothes and accessories do you usually choose?


"I tend to wear simple clothes. While that kind of clothing is versatile and works for many situations, it can sometimes feel a bit plain, so I like to bring in accessories or well-made small items to keep things feeling fresh. That's why I'm quite deliberate about whether something is truly necessary for me or not. Having a simple leather bag like this, where you can enjoy the character of the leather, helps create a mature casual look that doesn't fall apart—so it's something I really value."

It's a design that really lets the quality of the leather shine, isn't it? Just as the name suggests, it's genuinely simple. And I also think it's a very practical size to use.



"Exactly, it's simplicity above all. There are two inner pockets, so you can quickly grab small valuables. The BLACK Leather Shoulder Bag tofuthat we've reproduced this time is made from the same material as this bag—it has a nice grain and a slightly matte finish. It's sheepskin that gets even softer and develops more character the more you use it. I hope you'll enjoy watching that transformation too."

Checking the Storage Capacity of the tofu Shoulder Bag, Scenario by Scenario

One thing people naturally wonder about with any bag is how much it can hold. This tofu shoulder bag is remarkably versatile—it's nicely compact, yet has enough gusset depth to hold your belongings securely. It's a size that suits all kinds of situations, from everyday use to travel to special occasions. Let's take a look at just how much it can actually fit.

CASE 1: Heading to work with just the essentials / Going out on a day off

[Items packed] A bifold wallet, phone, makeup pouch, handkerchief, and a paperback book

We packed the kind of things you'd want to carry on a day off out in the city. This time we used a bifold wallet, but a long wallet fits without any trouble too, and there's room for a paperback to read on the go.

Top:  Organic Cotton Long-Sleeve Layered T-Shirt (Crew Neck, L), Pants: NAJA Denim Pants (INDIGO, SIZE 26), Shoes: trippen LEAF

CASE 2: As a sub bag for travel

[Items packed] A reusable water bottle, bifold wallet, phone, makeup pouch, notebook/planner, and a travel guidebook (A5-sized)

For this scenario, we prepared items for travel, including a reusable water bottle and an A5-sized guidebook. Everything fit without any issue. A tablet up to 8 inches (for example, the 6th-generation iPad mini) would also fit comfortably with room to spare.

What's convenient is the outer pocket. Keep your phone or cosmetics here for quick access. The shoulder strap isn't just adjustable in length—it can also be removed entirely, which is handy when you want to dress up a little for dinner at a restaurant while traveling.

With its plain, simple shape unaffected by passing trends, this leather shoulder bag "tofu" is one we hope you'll enjoy using for years to come.

▼See the full lineup of PATRICK STEPHAN items here

投稿者: 武田 日時: 2022年10月05日 11:00 | permalink

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