A vasco × ZUTTO collaboration. An original sub bag with a vintage feel

These days, being "smart" is all the rage, and small wallets and small bags are having their moment. But have you ever headed out with a bag that's already full once you've put in your wallet, phone, and lip balm, only to end up struggling when your load increases along the way? Even setting that aside, a bulging, overstuffed bag doesn't look smart at all. What we really want is to travel as light as possible, while still being prepared for the unexpected. This time, we've created an original sub bag to answer that wish—a double-name collaboration between vasco and ZUTTO.

A sub bag that pairs with any bag

Bag shown in coordination: 【Special Order】3-way Leather Pochette enveloppe GREY

Have you ever had the experience of your belongings piling up while you're out, making your trip a struggle? Whether it's documents accumulating during a work outing, or an unplanned purchase adding to your load, a sub bag comes in handy in these moments. However, the sub bags you commonly see around town tend to prioritize being lightweight and compact above all else—and while that makes them light, the fabric often feels flimsy and doesn't look stylish, or the shape distorts badly under heavy items, putting stress on the handles. It's been hard to find an ideal sub bag that's both practical and stylish. 

So we asked vasco, a maker highly popular at ZUTTO, to create a sub bag for us. The result is a one-of-a-kind bag that combines sturdiness and lightness with a stylish texture you'll want to use again and again.

A visit to the vasco workshop

We actually visited vasco's workshop to see the sample-making process for this original sub bag firsthand. vasco has renovated an entire vintage building in Higashi-Nakano, Tokyo, using it as a combined workshop, showroom, and office. Step into the showroom, and their popular bags greet you.

The workshop sits above the showroom, with a large window at the front offering a clear view of the street. It's a clean, no-frills space that's all contained on a single floor.

The craftspeople work in matching uniforms.

Dyeing the leather used for this bag's handle. Hand-dyeing is quite rare, but it's said to be the perfect method for creating leather with a textured, uneven finish.

Cutting the nylon cotton fabric.

From cutting the leather to the final finish, everything is done by hand. Here, holes are being punched into the handle to match the size of the metal fittings.

A metal die is placed on top of the leather, and a machine applies force to cut it. Since several tons of pressure are involved, this task is said to be more dangerous than it looks.

Punching holes for the metal fittings. Each one is done with great care.

Next, the cut leather pieces are finished off. The corners are rounded, and the edges are dyed thoroughly all the way through.

The cut nylon cotton fabric is sewn on the machine.

This time, we had a prototype bag made, and the ZUTTO original brand team went through repeated rounds of trial and error with vasco, saying things like "Let's shift the handle position another 2cm" or "Let's adjust the leather by a few millimeters."

A vintage-like bag packed with careful details

From left, GREY, BROWN

Here's the finished result. There are two colors: GREY, with a crisp tone that seems to blend gray and green, paired with a black belt; and BROWN, with a soft, warm feel that seems to blend brown and gray, paired with a brown belt. Let's take a closer look at it from two angles: functionality and design.

Functionality you can carry with confidence.

At first glance, it's a simple, standard tote bag. It's deep enough to hold A4-size documents or larger files without them sticking out.

The bottom gusset is about 11cm, while the sides keep a slim silhouette. By adding the gusset only to the bottom of the bag, the contents inside stay in place, making the bag easier to carry. It also helps keep the bag from losing its shape too drastically, no matter what you put inside.

Inside, there's a generously sized pocket measuring about 21cm tall by 20cm wide—big enough not only for a smartphone or pass case, but also for a compact tablet, notebook, or memo pad. For items you reach for often, it might actually be easier to take them in and out of this sub bag rather than your main bag. The pocket is set a little deeper than usual, so you won't have to worry about things spilling out when you're in a hurry. 

The fabric used is a light yet sturdy nylon cotton. It comes from a textile maker founded in Fukui Prefecture in the first year of the Taisho era, and this isthe same fabric used in vasco's day packThis fabric is also used in

. Fukui Prefecture, where textile production dates back as far as the Nara period and which by the Meiji era was recognized both in Japan and abroad as one of the country's leading textile-producing regions, is today a trusted production area centered on synthetic fiber fabrics such as nylon and polyester. This particular material combines the sheen and strength of nylon with the softness and warmth of cotton. The fabric is dyed using a two-bath method (a technique in which two types of fiber are dyed by successive immersion in two different dye baths), resulting in calm, sophisticated colors and an atmospheric surface texture with a chambray-like appeal. It's a wonderful material that can even be used in light rain.

Bag fabric is usually coated, but this time we made the coating thin enough to fold while ensuring it wouldn't become sticky over time.

A design that lets you enjoy a vintage feel.

The handle length can be adjusted with the belt.

The leather handles and hardware attached to the handle section were selected so that they would develop character over years of use. The leather has layered coloring to create depth and shadow. The leather handles will soften and relax with use, while the brass hardware darkens in places from contact with hands and air — a perfect match with the leather.

The leather handles are hand-dyed one by one by vasco craftsmen.

The nylon strap can also be tucked inside to keep it out of sight.

A beige, glossy nylon strap has been added for the shoulder strap. When your hands ache from a heavy load, or when you want to free up both hands, having a shoulder strap you can quickly sling over your shoulder is extremely convenient. Because the strap is fairly wide, it reduces the strain on your shoulder even when carrying heavy items.

It's also fine to carry it casually as a tote.

We aimed for a shape that, as a sub bag, is easy to use — not too eye-catching, yet not too plain either. This sub bag, with its classic shape accented by a belt and hardware, is exceptionally practical.

What should you put in it? How should you use it?

This versatile nylon 2-way tote bag works equally well as a companion for a small bag when you want to dress up, and as a helpful item on hand when documents and materials pile up in business situations. In colors like gray and beige that suit any bag or outfit, it's a joy to carry every day without having to worry about your coordination.

Paired with: [Special order] 3-way leather pochette enveloppe GREY

Here it's paired with a leather pochette from PATRICK STEPHAN. The blend of brown and gray tones creates a gentle, soft impression.

Paired with: LEATHER 3WAY clutch bag (BLACK)

Here it's paired with a clutch bag from the same brand, vasco. It pairs perfectly with the vintage-like bag, never disrupting the mood.

It's roomy enough to easily fit magazines. We tested it with quite heavy items, and thanks to the sturdy brass hardware and leather belt, it feels far more reassuring than a regular paper bag or a thin sub bag. It can also hold tall items, like a plastic bottle you might pick up while out. If you've been carrying a large bag every day just in case, this sub bag means you can now make a smaller, dressier shoulder bag meant for weekend outfits your everyday main bag.

>> Find the nylon 2-way tote bag here