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Together with ao, the gauze specialists, we've created original gauze wear with a gentle feel that has finally arrived

Soft, gentle gauze wear. The fact that gauze is so often chosen for baby clothing and inner garments that touch the skin directly proves just how kind it is to skin. ao is a factory brand born from a sewing factory in Itoigawa, Niigata Prefecture. By keeping processing to an absolute minimum, ao remains devoted to preserving gauze's natural texture and its "true gentleness" toward the skin.

We at ZUTTO were deeply moved by ao's approach to making things, and after repeated discussions and prototyping, we created original gauze wear that can be worn all year round. Gauze is often thought of as a delicate material, but this daily wear, made with the help of gauze specialists, is a piece we're confident you can wear regardless of the season.

From left: Smooth Jersey 8-Sleeve T-Shirt, Supima Cotton Double Gauze Shirt


What "gauze" means to the gauze specialists, and what they're particular about

The ao flagship store, nestled in Daikanyama, Tokyo

Gauze is a fabric made by loosely twisting cotton threads and weaving them together loosely, alternating warp and weft. With excellent moisture absorption, quick-drying properties, and breathability, gauze can be worn comfortably even on sweaty days, and dries quickly after washing, so it always feels clean to wear. The multi-layered structure of gauze creates pockets of air that provide excellent insulation as well, making it a truly versatile material that also proves useful in chillier seasons. Given how excellent a material gauze is, why is it so often used for inner garments that touch the skin directly, yet rarely made into outerwear for adults? This question is what gave birth to ao. In ao's clothes-making, which could be described as the work of true gauze specialists, the most important thing is "realizing the natural texture of the material, just as it is."


This might raise a question for many readers: is the gauze we're familiar with not, in fact, in its "original texture"? To answer that question, let us introduce the characteristics unique to ao's gauze wear.

Avoiding unnecessary processing

The first and foremost commitment is "avoiding processing as much as possible." Making gauze from thread involves a great many steps, and the more processes (processing) that come between, the more the material itself is handled and the fabric subjected to stress—both of which end up compromising its texture. For this reason, ao uses fabric that has been processed chemically to the absolute minimum extent possible.

A shirt still in the prototype stage. Before being dyed white, it has a slightly pinkish tint

When processing gauze, it's usually treated in order to stabilize the shrinkage rate unique to gauze (the degree to which fabric shrinks when washed or dyed). However, ao believed that this kind of processing would compromise the very texture that is gauze's greatest appeal. And so, even if it meant working with a fabric that's difficult to handle, ao resolved to use fabric that had undergone only the minimum necessary processing. As a result, the clothes end up being gentle on the wearer's skin as well.

That said, while using such fabric offers the benefit of excellent texture, it also comes with the difficulty of shrinking when washed. This is where ao made the most of its strength as a factory brand: through consistent production management, they made fine adjustments step by step, and in doing so achieved clothes-making that fully takes advantage of the material's original texture.

Delicate clothes-making made possible by consistent production management

Gauze shrinks more easily than ordinary fabric. Precisely because it's such a delicate material, it could be said to be a difficult one from which to produce a single garment of fixed shape. For this reason, it's often the case that a factory responsible for only part of the process cannot fully make the necessary adjustments.

A sewing factory founded in Showa 42 (1967) gave birth to ao

At ao, everything from making the material to completing a single garment is handled consistently in-house, allowing for adjustments between each process—pattern-making, cutting, and sewing. In the cutting process, which takes place after the fabric has been washed or dyed, workers judge margins of error that couldn't be fully calculated in advance, determining just where to cut each time. In addition, the pattern maker for the clothing considers not just the shape of the garment itself, but also "a shape that's easy for the people handling later processes to realize," and this careful pattern-drafting ultimately leads to higher-quality clothes-making.

It's precisely because ao is capable of this kind of meticulous attention to detail that we believed it could help create wear with the lasting, cherished quality that ZUTTO stands for. It was with this hope that this original wear became a reality.


The thread used is "cotton cashmere"

Working closely with ao, the gauze specialists, and consulting with them on all manner of details, we created the Smooth Jersey 8-Sleeve T-Shirt and the Supima Cotton Double Gauze Shirt. Both use thread made from Supima cotton, sometimes called "cotton cashmere," and as the nickname suggests, they're characterized by a smooth, gentle feel against the skin.

So what's the difference between the shirt and the T-shirt, both of which use the same thread? It comes down to whether the fabric is "knitted" or "woven." In this case, the

Smooth Jersey 8-Sleeve T-Shirt is knitted, while the Supima Cotton Double Gauze Shirt is woven. Knitted fabric is made by continuously forming loops of thread and hooking them together, giving it stretch. Woven fabric, on the other hand, is made by interlacing warp and weft threads at right angles, and has no stretch. Which one you choose depends on your preferred feel and what kind of clothes you'd like to pair it with.

Left: Smooth Jersey 8-Sleeve T-Shirt, Right: Supima Cotton Double Gauze Shirt


Smooth Jersey 8-Sleeve T-ShirtWell, we knit together regular 60-count yarn and mura-ito (slub yarn, made by twisting threads of different thicknesses together) to create a distinctive crepe-like texture. Even though it's a simple white T-shirt, it has a texture with real depth. Meanwhile, the 【Supima Cotton Double Gauze Shirt】, made from double gauze woven with 40-count thread, feels like being wrapped in the soft, fluffy comfort of gauze. Even though both are finished in the same "white," using different threads creates a difference in the resulting texture. This is truly clothes-making that makes the most of its materials.


What ZUTTO considers "gauze wear you'll want to wear for years to come"

This gauze wear was created through many prototypes and repeated discussions. While emphasizing a basic style that's easy for anyone to choose regardless of season, we paid close attention to details in key areas.

The "Nameraka Tenjiku Series" is one of ao's signature lines. Based on the T-shirt from this popular series, we focused on the details to create the 【Nameraka Tenjiku 3/4 Sleeve T-Shirt】. We made the sleeve length 3/4 (8-bu) for easy wear throughout all seasons.

A sleeve length that's reassuring even against summer air conditioning.Even though it's just worn over a light-colored inner layer, the see-through effect isn't a concern

Skirt: ST.SKIRT 28color Skirt, Belt: Leather Belt PV887, Bangle: STERLING SILVER BANGLE SB31・STERLING SILVER BANGLE SB32, Sandals: coming soon

We gave the collar and hem areas a design with a sense of movement, so it doesn't look too simple and can be worn as a standalone top. Making the neckline wider creates a gentle impression. We placed a pale gray tape at the back of the neck, and had a "Z" embroidery for ZUTTO added to the left hem in the same color as the back neck tape. 

Available in 2 sizes. Left: Size 1 shown (158cm), Right: Size 2 shown (166cm)


Meanwhile, the 【Supima Cotton Double Gauze Shirt】 works well both as a standalone piece and as a light outer layer. Its smooth, gentle touch is truly characteristic of gauze.

As with the T-shirt, available in 2 sizes. Left: Size 1 shown (158cm), Right: Size 2 shown (166cm)

With the theme of "a shirt like a blouse," we've scattered accent points at the collar and cuffs within this natural white shirt. We made the collar width smaller and the neckline a bit wider, so the neck looks neat and clean. We also had the matching "Z" embroidery, just like the T-shirt, added to the front hem.

Blouse-like details have also been incorporated into the cuffs

When held up to the light, you can feel the sheerness typical of gauze, but because the fabric is doubled, you can wear it as a single layer with peace of mind. This comfortable shirt, which can be quickly thrown on to guard against air conditioning or sun exposure even in the hot summer, is a valuable piece to have. Because the material is gentle on the skin, it's reassuring to be able to wear it even over sensitive skin.

As an outer layer for air conditioning or sun protection. Its simple shape goes with any bottoms

Pants: Chef's Trousers, Sandals: MACI Clog Sandals BLACK​

Paired with a skirt, it also works as a feminine standalone piece

Skirt: Brush Tenjiku Skirt, Bangle: STERLING SILVER BANGLE SB31・STERLING SILVER BANGLE SB32, Bag: Sacoche Bag, Sandals: coming soon


For long-lasting wear

This shirt makes the most of gauze's texture. Although it's a delicate material, it was made to be used in everyday life, so please enjoy washing it easily at home and watching the texture gradually deepen over time.

【Watch out for snagging】

Since this is a delicate material, please be careful of snagging on accessories or the metal fittings of bags when putting on or taking off the garment.

【How to wash without damaging the texture?】

・Wash on a gentle water flow setting, inside a laundry net

This is a delicate gauze material. To minimize stress on the garment, please put it in a fine-mesh laundry net and select a gentle water flow course when washing.

・Don't use fabric softener frequently

Fabric softener works by coating the fibers of clothing to make them soft. If used frequently, it puts that much more strain on the fabric, damaging the fabric's original texture. It's a matter of preference, but we recommend using it only when you feel the need.

・Avoid tumble drying

Since this is a delicate material, if force is applied from various directions through tumble drying, the fabric will become damaged. After washing, please reshape the garment and dry it in the shade.

【What to do when pilling bothers you?】

Because Supima cotton is made of high-quality long-fiber yarn, pilling can become noticeable due to friction or washing. In that case, please gently brush the garment with a clothes brush to remove the pilling.

>> A comfort that melts into your skin. Find the 【Nameraka Tenjiku 3/4 Sleeve T-Shirt】 here

>> A basic white shirt made from a gentle material. 【Supima Cotton Double Gauze Shirt】

▽Click here for the full list of ZUTTO original wear

投稿者: 武田 日時: 2018年05月29日

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