Put to the test: chinos in summer

Wearing the clothes we love and dressing up to enjoy fashion. In today's world, overflowing with all kinds of coordinating styles, what we choose to wear is left entirely up to each of us—yet the desire to dress in a way that feels true to ourselves is something we all share. That said, there are also elements—the season, the weather—that can put the brakes on our wish to wear what we truly want to wear. Especially in the height of summer, we tend to prioritize functionality: staying as light and cool as possible, which can leave our outfits feeling a bit one-note.

In that sense, the height of summer is actually the perfect season to return to the basic function of clothing and reconsider how we choose garments with comfort in mind. This time, we're picking up ZUTTO's original chino trousers. Since debuting in early spring, this item has been steadily gaining fans. Based on the experiences of ZUTTO staff who have actually gotten their hands on these chino trousers, we put them to the test from the perspective of "so, how do chinos hold up in summer, anyway?"

Focusing on chinos once again

You have a vague sense of what it is, but explaining it precisely turns out to be surprisingly tricky. It seems there are quite a few items like this in the world, and chinos seem to be counted among them. "Simple cotton trousers," "khaki or beige in color," "a beloved wardrobe staple," "and apparently with a long history behind them." Piece together these fragmentary impressions and you do start to see the identity of chinos come into focus, but many of us reach for them without any particular reason, and rarely stop to consider their precise definition. One theory traces the word "chino" back to a fabric that the U.S. military purchased in bulk from China for use in military uniforms during a past world war, with the name "chino" said to derive from "CHINA."

We've introduced the background and history behind the birth of chinos in detail here. If you're interested in the story of chinos, please have a look.

>>> Read "Worn in and grown over time. Chino trousers packed with attention to detail"

At ZUTTO, we proceeded with this project by fully embracing the best qualities of the chino trousers that originated as military uniforms, while placing importance on a silhouette that's beautiful and easy for women to wear.

The silhouette is a tapered type that narrows toward the hem, making it easy for women to wear without becoming too menswear-like. The fabric has been treated with VATDYE. While this VATDYE method resists detergents and doesn't fade easily, it has low colorfastness against friction, meaning wear marks (the kind of fading commonly seen on denim) appear readily with use, allowing you to create your own vintage texture the more you wear them. This dyeing method is notoriously difficult when it comes to achieving deep, dark colors—so much so that even skilled craftsmen struggle with it. Today, it's rarely used for clothing at all. Rather than the surface color simply wearing away from friction, this is a fabric whose quality you come to appreciate more the longer you wear it—making it a "trouser to grow with," much like denim.

A Q&A with a summer chino devotee

We can describe "what chinos are" in detail as information, but what everyone really wants to know is "what they actually feel like to wear." From here, we posed a Q&A to a staff member who actually wears these chino trousers regularly, approaching it from the angle of "so, how are chinos in summer, really?"

Q1: In summer, are chinos hot, or not?

The devotee's answer: I think they're perfectly wearable except during the hottest part of summer!

"The fabric used for ZUTTO's chinos is an original developed jointly by a weaving mill in Fukuyama, Hiroshima Prefecture—known for its durable workwear fabrics and a supplier to well-known overseas brands—and FOB FACTORY. When I actually wore them, my impression was that they had quite a bit of stiffness when new, but after wearing them regularly for about a month, they've started to soften up a bit.

In terms of thickness, they might feel a touch warm to wear in the peak of summer. That said, thanks to the tapered silhouette—slightly fuller through the hip and thigh, narrowing toward the hem—I haven't noticed any discomfort from sweat clinging to the fabric even after long stretches of walking. Compared to, say, skinny jeans that fit tightly against the skin and can feel damp and clingy with sweat, these feel much less uncomfortable by comparison."

Q2: How do they pair with tops?

The devotee's answer: Both cut-and-sew tops and neat, dressier shirts work well. Whether you tuck in or leave it out changes the impression.

Cotton V-neck cut-and-sew top (CARDINAL)

Technorama jersey panel top , Leather belt PV887 , Snake design bangle / 196

"Chinos have a 'casual' image, but I pair them with everything from relaxed T-shirts to dressier collared tops, like a linen sleeveless shirt. Part of this comes down to chinos being simple items that go with just about anything, but I also think the beauty of the tapered silhouette is doing some of the work here. Another reason they're easy to mix and match is that the hem of the top looks well-balanced whether tucked in or left out. This is actually shown in the images on the product page—wearing them at a slightly high waist and tucking in the top makes your legs look noticeably longer and leaner. On the other hand, if you drop the waistline down to your hips and leave the top untucked, you get a relaxed, casual-yet-put-together look."

Q3: How do they pair with summer shoes?

Long-time wearer's answer: As is, the length runs a bit long. Roll them up for a clean balance with both flat sandals and sneakers.

Left: Rolled up once　　Right: Rolled up twice

*Worn in size 1 by someone 166cm tall

"I tend to wear a lot of flat shoes without heels, including sneakers, and at full length these pants come down to just about where you can't see the ankle, so when I wear sandals I roll them up once or twice. Rolled up once, they keep enough length below the knee for a slim, elongated look; rolled up twice, the ankle is fully visible for a more slender impression. It probably depends on your height and the size you're wearing, so whether to roll them up—and how much—comes down to personal preference, but for pairing with summer sandals, I personally recommend showing plenty of ankle for a cool, breezy look. It genuinely does feel cooler that way (laughs)."

Q4: What's the texture like after washing?

Long-time wearer's answer: If you smooth them out properly before hanging to dry, wrinkles aren't an issue.

"Not just with chinos, but especially with fabrics made from natural fibers like cotton or hemp, you naturally wonder what kind of texture will result from the first wash, and whether the feel of the fabric might change in a bad way. I own the khaki version of ZUTTO's original chinos, and after the first wash I didn't notice any concerning fading or change in texture. Some cotton garments do wrinkle, so it may have helped that I make a point of smoothing out the wrinkles carefully before hanging them to dry, right after taking them out of the washing machine."

Q5: Is ironing necessary?

Long-time wearer's answer: If you want a polished look, it's worth the extra step of ironing!

"Wrinkles aren't a concern, but the texture after washing is rough and casual—the kind of thing you'd want to pair with a freshly laundered white T-shirt. On the other hand, if you want a more polished look, taking the extra step of ironing them to a crisp press brings out a beautiful tapered line. When I want to go for a more feminine coordinate—like with heeled sandals or an airy, feminine sleeveless top—putting on freshly ironed chinos somehow makes me stand up a little straighter, too.

A detailed method for ironing ZUTTO's chinos is featured in a past installment of ZUTTO's Yomimono series. Looking at it, you really do see how much the impression of the same pants changes once you iron them. That article was edited around the theme of "changing wardrobes for the season," but of course the everyday care is the same."

For more on ironing chinos, check out this Yomimono article

>>> Passing the baton to the next season: finishing off pre-changeover maintenance with ironing

It's all about the shoes. Show off your chinos in summer with a roll-up

ZUTTO's chino trousers open up more possibilities depending on what you pair them with. As the ZUTTO staff Q&A shows, in summer especially, how you roll them up and pair them with shoes lets you create all kinds of different looks.

High-top sneakers also strike a good balance

【Exclusive】Waffle Crew Neck Short Sleeve H/GRAY, Deck Shoes L012 BLACK, 2WAY Kanken Bag Brick Regular, Double Ring Belt, ALBA Riki Watch AKPK426

Here's a coordinate pairing high-top sneakers with chinos rolled up generously. Sizing up one size from a perfect fit and wearing the pants low on the hip gives a more relaxed, effortless look. Wearing them low-slung with a generous roll-up can make the legs look shorter, but tucking in the top balances things out nicely, as you can see.

Heeled sandals for a slender ankle

Heavyweight T-Shirt , STERLING SILVER BANGLE SLIM SB9　, Turban Design Espadrille Sandals

Pair them with summery jute heeled sandals, and the same chinos take on a much more refined feel. Both the top and bottom have their cuffs and hems rolled up, completing a summer-appropriate look. What's more, ZUTTO's chino trousers have a three-dimensional pattern below the knee, and the seam line where the fabric pieces meet curves gently, making the legs look more beautiful and longer when worn with heels.

A compact silhouette paired with pumps

Wide Dress BLACK, Plain Pumps GARGOYLE, FLAT SHOULDER/S BLACK, STERLING SILVER BANGLE SB32

Pairing chinos rolled up twice lets you achieve a neat, compact silhouette even when worn with voluminous chunky-heeled pumps. In this coordinate, an oversized shirt dress is layered on top, splitting the visual weight between the upper body and the feet—so rolling up the pant hems generously to cinch them in creates a nice sense of contrast.

▼Details that shine: ZUTTO's original chinos