How to Wear Your First Urushi-Lacquered Accessory

When you hear the word urushi (Japanese lacquer), you probably picture lacquerware first. But urushi has long been used for personal adornments, too—that is, for accessories. Glossy and elegant, urushi-lacquered accessories carry a presence unlike that of any other material. At the same time, if you don't often come across urushi items in daily life, you may wonder how best to wear and care for them. So in this article, we'll introduce how to handle urushi accessories, and take a closer look at the appeal of lacquered items—something that's especially easy to enjoy in accessory form.

The Appeal of Urushi Goes Beyond Tableware

One reason urushi has been used for so long in Japan, as seen in classic lacquerware, lies in its properties: it resists humidity and heat, and even has antibacterial and insect-repellent qualities. The fact that lacquered vessels made before the Common Era have been unearthed from archaeological sites speaks to just how durable urushi truly is.

Urushi pins finished with colored urushi lacquer

Beyond these practical qualities, urushi's visual beauty is another part of its appeal. Sap collected from the urushi tree is filtered to become what's known as ki-urushi (raw lacquer). Sometimes it's used as is to bring out a glossy sheen; other times, heat or iron powder is added, or pigments are mixed in, transforming it into vividly colored lacquers—vermilion, black, and more—rich with depth and shine. Beyond colored lacquer alone, decorative techniques such as maki-e (sprinkled gold or silver decoration) and raden (mother-of-pearl inlay) are sometimes added, producing pieces beautiful enough to be found in art museums. What all these works share is the distinctive color and delicacy unique to urushi—a beauty that fits the words "elegant" and "graceful" perfectly.

Earrings from Bisai, featuring a shippo (seven treasures) pattern rendered in maki-e

Urushi can also be applied to a wide variety of base materials. Wood is the most common, but brass and other metals, shell, and glass are used as well. Because urushi accessories draw on such a rich range of base materials, one of their charms is being able to enjoy the interplay between the original material and the lacquer applied to it.

Urushi as an Accessory

Now that you have a sense of urushi's properties, let's take a look at some urushi accessories. ZUTTO carries a range of urushi-lacquered accessories—bracelets, necklaces, brooches, and more—each made through a different process depending on the brand. All of them are designed to be easy to incorporate into everyday outfits, so there's no need to feel intimidated just because they're made with urushi. You can enjoy pairing them with your wardrobe just as freely as any other accessory.

Fabric × Urushi-Lacquered Pins

Urushi Pins, Triangle Series

For an easy-to-wear urushi accessory, pins are our first recommendation. Because pins can be attached to clothing, bags, hats, and more, you can incorporate them however suits your taste.

KORINDO's urushi pins, with lacquer carefully applied to their small, rounded bases, are grounded in the tradition of Echizen lacquerware from Fukui Prefecture. They're made using the same process as Echizen lacquerware's tiered boxes: urushi is hand-applied to cut natural wood, and maki-e decoration is then added on top.

The gold-looking areas are maki-e sections, made by scattering gold powder over applied lacquer. Because the maki-e area is made of fine powder, light reflects off it randomly, giving it a shimmer distinct from that of metal. Even with a simple color scheme, the result feels rich and vibrant—an accessory that captures the unique charm of urushi.

Urushi Pins, Animal Series and Urushi Pins, Necktie Stripe

Bag: Kate Shoulder Bag

Pins are small and unassuming, making them easy to try even if you're new to urushi accessories. Pinned onto a linen bag, they add a real touch of charm. They also pair well with stripes and darker colors, proving surprisingly versatile for casual styling.

Urushi Pins, Triangle Series

Hat: Beret

As long as it's fabric, a pin can basically be attached anywhere, so feel free to use one on a hat or piece of clothing. Here, a khaki hat paired with a pin featuring gold maki-e creates a color contrast that brightens the area around the face. Even from a distance, you can sense the subtle dimensionality so characteristic of urushi.

Natural Stone × Urushi-Lacquered Pendant

[Special Order] White Mother-of-Pearl Pendant

Next, let's look at an urushi-lacquered pendant. This white mother-of-pearl pendant, made through a special order from ZUTTO to bisai, features colored urushi—made by mixing pigment into shu-ai urushi (a red-brown base lacquer)—applied to white mother-of-pearl. The design places a ring of colored lacquer around the shell's natural luster. Because the color is created by mixing pigment into shu-ai urushi, even a single color carries a sense of gloss and depth. Small and simple as it is, the pendant still catches the light beautifully at the neckline, asserting its presence.

When it comes to urushi (Japanese lacquer) colors, vermillion and black are the classic choices, but for the white shell pendant, a fresh, bright color was chosen instead—one that looks stylish at the neckline. The design draws inspiration from traditional Japanese colors as well as the buildings and scenery found in old European towns. Urushi has the curious property of curing in high humidity, and by taking the time to let it dry slowly, vivid, richly saturated colors are achieved.

Ring: [Special Order] CUBE ADJUSTABLE RING

This white shell pendant makes the most of urushi's beautiful colors, pairing naturally with basic, monotone outfits—but we'd also love for you to enjoy combining it with other colors.

Pairing it with other colors might seem tricky, but it works well when balanced with natural stones that have their own natural luster and color. TO LABO's [Special Order] CUBE ADJUSTABLE RING (BLUE) is a ring made with natural lapis lazuli—a stone with a striking, deep navy hue speckled faintly with golden minerals. Like the white shell pendant, it has a glossy finish, making it an easy accessory combination to pull off. Choosing pieces that are both on the smaller side is another key point, as it keeps them from competing with each other.

Leather Watch × Urushi-Lacquered Bracelet

Ito tabane Bracelet

The Ito tabane bracelet is a unique accessory that combines urushi-lacquered brass pipes with gold thread (kinshi). Amid its brilliance lies a delicacy and understated elegance, in a design reminiscent of embroidered kimono. It's on the thicker side as far as bracelets go, and with the gold thread worked in, it makes a striking impression even worn on its own.

Ito tabane Series

Kinshi (gold thread) is a traditional craft made by twisting gold leaf around silk thread. Terajima Yasutaro Shoten, the Kyoto workshop behind Ito tabane, has long-standing experience producing kimono obi embroidery and sumo wrestlers' ceremonial aprons. When bundled together, the gold threads create movement—a kind of "twist" and "sway"—giving the accessory a refreshing quality.

Watch: [Special Order] Haku Gold

Even a striking piece like the Ito tabane bracelet is, surprisingly, easy to pair with a watch. Choose a watch with a leather strap, and the chic impression of both pieces will bring out the best in each other. Choosing both the Ito tabane bracelet and a Hanamokko watch in colors kept to a minimum results in a combination that shines in a simple outfit. The Hanamokko watch's face is made with gold leaf, so the shared Japanese element of gold thread and gold leaf is another reason the two pair so well.

Bare Skin × Urushi-Lacquered Earrings

White Shell Bordered with Maki-e.Pierce Oval

Urushi-lacquered accessories naturally pair well with our own skin too. If you're choosing an accessory for the first time, small earrings in a subdued color are an easy place to start. At first glance you might not notice, but look closely and you'll find carefully applied urushi lacquer. An accessory with that kind of depth is perfectly suited to grown-up taste.

Pierce Shizuku White

Bisai's earrings feature various maki-e designs applied to white or black shell. Shell catches the light with an elegant sheen, making for a beautiful accessory even in small form. Each earring bears a different pattern, and the delicate maki-e craftsmanship is so fine it's almost mesmerizing.

Ito tabane Earrings

The Ito tabane earrings, combined with gold thread, come in a loop shape, and the urushi and gold thread flatter skin tone beautifully. The white urushi, close to skin color, is easy to choose even for beginners and blends naturally with the skin. Recommended for anyone wanting an earring with a bit of presence.

Precautions and Care for Urushi-Lacquered Accessories

Before Use

・Fully cured urushi products pose no risk of skin irritation, but in very rare cases, those with sensitive skin may experience a reaction. If this occurs, please discontinue use immediately and consult a specialist.

・Items that were recently made may have a distinctive urushi scent, but this does not affect usability and will fade over time.

・Please take care, as the urushi lacquer, maki-e, and gold thread may peel or become damaged if struck by something sharp or pulled.

Everyday Care and Storage

・After use, wipe the entire piece with a dry, soft cloth to help maintain the urushi's luster.

・Urushi is sensitive to ultraviolet light. Please avoid placing it in direct sunlight.

When storing, please place the piece in an accessory case or similar container. To avoid excessive dryness, we recommend using it often rather than keeping it stored away for long periods.