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Everyday Wool and Cashmere Care

As the weather turns cold, we can't do without warm wool and cashmere knits, coats, mufflers, gloves, and more. But unlike summer clothing, wool and cashmere aren't the kind of thing you wash every single time you wear them.

Is it really okay to just fold up something you've worn and put it straight back in the drawer, just because you didn't sweat much in it?
And after wearing something for a day and taking it off, how should you put it away again?
What kind of care during the season will let you enjoy using these items again comfortably next year? We looked into the answers to these questions.

First, we'd like to point out that wool is actually an excellent material that doesn't easily get dirty. A component called lanolin repels moisture, so even if you spill water on a wool garment, blotting it quickly with a dry towel will keep it from soaking in.


The material itself also has moisture-regulating properties. The surface of animal fibers has cuticles that open and close, absorbing moisture in humid conditions and releasing it when the air is dry, thereby regulating the moisture in the air around it. Wool in particular is said to be able to absorb over 30% of its weight in moisture, and this natural function is the source of a comfort that synthetic fibers simply can't match.

Arran Tartan Muffler/Minot Navy

As you can see, wool and cashmere are materials that resist dirt and humidity well, so daily washing isn't necessary, and there's no need to be overly fussy about it. In fact, we don't recommend frequent dry cleaning, as it can damage the texture and feel of the material.


Cashmere's smooth touch and sheen in particular come from moisture in the cuticles, so it's important to preserve those natural oils rather than strip them away.


That said, it's not true that you can keep these garments "clean" without doing anything at all. Wearing them means they'll pick up dust, and more importantly, wool and cashmere share a weak point: they're vulnerable to friction. This is exactly the problem that a clothes brush solves.

In winter, we tend to layer more—wearing a coat over a knit, or wrapping a muffler around the neck of a coat. This kind of friction generates static electricity in knit and cashmere items, which attracts dust and debris and tangles it into the fibers. This dust and debris can cause moth damage, and disturbed fibers can also lead to pilling.

Brushing with a clothes brush restores the direction of tangled fibers and removes dust and debris. It also reduces fuzzing of the fibers, which helps prevent new dirt from sticking. Be sure to use a clothes brush made from a natural material that doesn't generate static electricity easily. We recommend boar bristle, which has just the right amount of firmness. Simply brushing your wool and cashmere items at the end of each day will make them last significantly longer.

カシミア & ウールケア 洋服ブラシ

For wool and cashmere items, please "brush them the same day you wear them." If you leave the disturbed fibers as they are, it becomes harder to smooth them back into place, so it's best to brush as soon as possible.

カシミア & ウールケア 洋服ブラシ

Basic Brushing Method

1. First, give the garment a light shake to remove any dust or debris on the surface.


2. Hang it on a hanger, or lay it flat on a table or similar surface.


3. Apply the brush and, using a snap of the wrist, brush in one direction along the flow of the fibers, as if sweeping away dust.
Be careful not to scrub too hard, as this can damage the fibers or stretch out the knit stitches.


Point to remember!
Brushing is simply about coaxing out dust and debris and smoothing the fibers into a consistent direction—it's not about removing pills. Please brush gently.


▼Brushing Tips by Item

Knits:

Depending on the design and knitting method, be mindful of how much pressure you apply and which direction you brush. Brushing against the flow of the fibers may compromise the knit's design.


Coats: Don't forget small details like the underside of the collar and pocket flaps.


Mufflers: Don't brush the fringe, as this can cause it to unravel.

マフラー ROYAL STEWART

One key to making your wool and cashmere clothes last longer is to avoid wearing them on consecutive days. If you wear something for a day, let it rest for 2 to 3 days. On the day you wear it, brush it and then let it air out in a well-ventilated spot, out of direct sunlight.


This can be done indoors, but rather than leaving the garment spread out on a chair or sofa, it's better to hang it properly on a hanger. It's also a good idea to set up a temporary spot for this, such as a hanger rack.
*Note: If you leave a knit hanging on a hanger for a long time, it may stretch out under its own weight, so keep an eye on it as you go.

Letting your clothes rest allows moisture to escape and lets the disturbed fibers settle back down. Even the slight stretching that happens at the cuffs and neckline from wearing will settle back into shape after a few days of rest.

ラベンダー&シダーハンガー 5本組

A sturdy hanger is recommended.

Always remove any pills that form using scissors. If you pull them off with your fingers, it tugs on the surrounding fibers and makes new pills more likely to form.


Pill-removal brushes and electric pill removers shave off the pills, so they may look clean, but they damage the fabric, and worst of all, they gradually thin out your precious wool and cashmere garments.

— What to Do Before Putting It Away —


During the season, once you've finished wearing your wool or cashmere items and brushed them, don't put them away right away. To keep them in optimal condition, it's essential to thoroughly remove any moisture. Even in winter, you tend to sweat lightly on a packed train, in a warm office, or in a restaurant, and wool and cashmere, with their excellent moisture absorption, hold onto that sweat. To let them properly release that moisture, we recommend airing coats, knits, and scarves in the shade after each wear.

— Protecting Against Moth Damage —


For some reason, insects seem to prefer expensive materials, and cashmere is said to be one of their favorites. During the season, why not keep your items in a Woodlore cedar storage box?

シダー収納ボックス

This box is made with red cedar, known for its insect-repelling, deodorizing, and moisture-resistant properties, so it gently protects your precious clothing. The refreshing woody scent unique to red cedar will make you feel as though you're taking a walk through the forest. If the fragrance starts to fade, simply rub it lightly with sandpaper to bring it back.

When the season is over, move your items to an airtight storage box and add mothballs. We recommend natural camphor.

天然樟脳

Camphor is a natural moth repellent made by distilling the branches and leaves of the camphor tree (kusunoki). Its refreshing scent envelops your clothing and firmly guards it against pests. When exposed to air, the scent quickly fades, so you won't need to worry about a lingering repellent smell. This is a major and welcome difference from chemical mothballs.

Your favorite wool or cashmere item that you finally got your hands on.
It wasn't cheap, and regardless of price, it's only natural to want to take good care of it and use it for a long time. It seems the key is not to save up all the care for after the season, but to tend to your item little by little each time you wear it. Simply keeping a brush along the path from your front door might make it easier to do this smoothly right after you get home. It may seem like a bit of a hassle, but the effort you put in will surely pay off in how long your item lasts, so please give it a try.

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投稿者: 丸山 日時: 2015年12月20日 11:00 | permalink

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