Creating Beautiful Formal Style: Louis FAGLIN's Cufflinks and Tie Pins

Cufflinks and tie pins.

These are popular accessories for men's business and formal wear.

Different from must-have items like neckties and belts,

we'll explore the appeal of "plus α" items through Louis FAGLIN, known as

a long-established French maison. 

Louis FAGLIN is, in fact, the very first brand to create

the cufflink style known as the T-bar, which is now the most popular type.

First, let's unravel the history of cufflinks and the background

of their craftsmanship.

We usually call them "cuffs buttons" or "cuffs," but

the correct term is cufflinks (cuff links).

It means something that fastens the cuffs together.

"Cuffs button" is wasei-eigo (Japanese-made English), and calling them just "cuffs" gives the

meaning "sleeve," so it apparently doesn't make sense in English-speaking countries.

Cufflinks were born in 17th-century France, as

an accessory for fastening shirt cuffs, and as with

many French fashion items of that era,

cufflinks too were a symbol of the aristocracy.

Since ornate materials such as lace and ribbon were used at the time,

washing them was apparently not an easy task.

So, in order to make it possible to wash the cuffs,

removable cufflink styles are thought to have become

the mainstream.

Today, business shirts mostly use more practical,

so-called ordinary buttons,

and the occasions on which cufflinks are worn are ones where dress shirts are used

— in other words, most often weddings and parties.

To wear cufflinks, you need a dedicated shirt with

buttonholes at the cuffs, so it may not be something

everyone owns.

But it's precisely for those special occasions of men's styling

that bringing out cufflinks and enjoying a look different from usual

is something worth savoring, isn't it? 

The representative cufflink shapes (fastening methods) are:

・Swivel type (spring type)

・Chain type (a type in which the face and backing are connected by a chain)

・Fixed type (fastened simply by passing a clasp sized to fit the buttonhole)

・Snap type (splits into two parts, connected and fixed with a snap button)

There are various types like these, but the one said to be easiest to use is

the swivel type.

At Louis FAGLIN, this is called

the "T-bar," and

this brand is, in fact, the one that created its original form.

This T-bar refers to a T-shaped part called the backing,

which is folded down and passed through the outer buttonhole of the shirt cuff,

then, after putting the arm through the sleeve, inserted into the inner buttonhole and raised again

to form a T-shape and hold it in place.

Fold the bar down and pass it through the shirt's buttonhole.

Thanks to this invention, cufflinks that used to be difficult to fasten

became much more accessible, and

attention to elegant suit styles is said to have risen sharply as a result. 

Louis FAGLIN

was born in France in 1899, and

with reliable quality backed by a history of over 100 years,

it has maintained unchanging popularity both now and in the past.

Louis FAGLIN's cufflinks,

unlike the highly decorative ones currently on the market,

are characterized by classic designs that retain the practicality of old.

Not ostentatious, the design that subtly asserts itself at the cuff

is truly a masterpiece made for the mature man. 

For example,

Cufflinks 7366SV Mother of Pearl

What Louis FAGLIN excels at is

cufflinks that make use of seashells.

They use mother of pearl, made from the shiro-cho-gai (white-lipped pearl oyster) shell.

Carefully selecting pieces with well-matched grain, the way its expression changes

depending on the viewing angle is truly lovely. Paired with silver in the design,

it creates a crisp, sharp look.

This is a versatile type that can be worn for all occasions, including formal settings. 

Cufflinks 4148GD Kumihimo (braided cord)

This design, which looks like a knotted cord,

has long been a standard model for Louis FAGLIN.

The kumihimo, its parts welded and assembled by artisan hands,

becomes a symbol connecting affection across time.

As this is a bold gold design, we recommend wearing it

on glamorous occasions such as weddings and parties. 

Cufflinks 9033SV Vis

This is one of Louis FAGLIN's signature models.

The design looks as if screws have been driven around the edge,

with a matte finish at the center,

showing an air of elegance within its calm, basic design.

As this is not a very assertive model, those who are allowed to wear cufflinks

at the office might do well to start with a model like this. 

Louis FAGLIN (ルイファグラン）には、

an archive of cufflinks that French artisans have developed over more than a century

is preserved.

With truly over 15,000 designs developed alongside numerous renowned maisons,

it is a precious vintage collection.

Even now, 100 years later, parts such as shells, stones, and crystals remain

exactly as they were back then, and are used to remake vintage models.

The accumulation of history is what shapes new designs. 

The history of the tie pin goes hand in hand with the history of the necktie.

There are various theories about the origin of the necktie,

but it is believed to have originated from the scarf-like cloth worn around

the neck by Croatian mercenaries during the reign of Louis XIII.

Some say it was worn to protect the neck from the cold,

while others say it was worn like a talisman—scarves given by family

or lovers, praying for a safe return from the battlefield.

It changed into its current form in the latter half of the 19th century, when shirt collars became smaller.

The necktie also evolved to be longer and narrower, and with various colors and patterns emerging,

it became an item that could express individuality within men's fashion.

When it comes to accessories for such a necktie, the tie pin (tie bar) is the answer.

The tie pin serves two purposes.

One is as a fashion element that enhances the necktie.

The other is a functional element that helps prevent

the necktie from moving or becoming disheveled.

To begin with, neckties in the past did not have

a loop for passing through the small blade. Also, since many neckties

lacked lining or interlining, when the tie was tied,

the small and large blades would move about separately, and the position

would easily shift under the jacket,

which is said to be why the tie pin was born. 

Comparing cufflinks and tie pins,

the tie pin might be easier to incorporate into everyday wear.

Cufflinks give a dressy impression,

so depending on the company you work for, they may seem out of place.

With a tie pin, however, you can incorporate it without much sense of incongruity. 

Color

The silver type is versatile and easy to use for various occasions.

A gold one as a second piece is recommended for weddings and parties. 

Design

All of the Louis FAGLIN (ルイファグラン） tie pins feature simple

designs, so they should be easy to pair with the neckties you already own.

Since the tie pin itself is small, patterns are less noticeable than you might think,

and one with a bit of design tends to look more stylish than a completely plain one.

Also, please take into account the width of your necktie and the length of the tie pin.

If you prefer a narrower necktie, it's better to choose

a shorter tie pin for good balance. 

Here's our recommendation.

A model with a lovely design featuring set screws, and a staple item for the brand.

Since it comes in a matching design with the cufflinks, gifting the two together

makes for a stylish present. 

One important role of the tie pin is to prevent the necktie from swaying or becoming disheveled,

so it clips together a total of three layers: the shirt and the two layers of the necktie (the large and small blades).

Since men's shirts overlap with the left side on top, the tie pin

is inserted from the right side toward the left side.

Also, the position where the tie pin is worn differs depending on whether

you are wearing a jacket or just a shirt.

・When wearing a jacket

Attach it slightly above the top button of the jacket.

It looks stylish when it's just barely, subtly visible.

・When wearing only a shirt

In this case, it's more functional to attach the tie pin lower on the necktie

so that the tie doesn't get in the way when bending over or washing your hands.

As for the exact position, personal preference and trends also come into play,

so please use this as a reference. 

The Louis FAGLIN (ルイファグラン） tie pin (tie bar) is

a clip type. It has no spring, and is inserted onto the necktie

in the same way as a money clip.

Because of this, if you use it only with thick neckties,

the clipping strength may weaken over time.

To take good care of each one and use them for a long time, we recommend having

several in different colors and designs, and rotating between them. 

The Louis FAGLIN（ルイファグラン） cufflinks and tie pins

are based on brass, with the silver-colored ones plated with palladium

and the gold-colored ones coated with 18K gold. 

・Cleaning with a cloth

After use, before putting it away, carefully wipe it with a silver cloth or a soft cloth.

This will make a difference in how beautiful it stays over time. 

・Take care with storage too

Cufflinks aren't something you use every day,

so they likely spend more time in storage than in use.

To keep cufflinks from bumping into each other or stacking together, please place them individually on a tray,

put them in cloth or clear bags, and be mindful of giving them enough space when storing them. 

・Watch out for impacts

Since cufflinks are worn on your wrists, they're an item that

can easily bump into things. Please be careful

not to knock them against anything hard or drop them.

That said, the small scratches that build up over time with use

can also be appreciated as marks of a well-loved item, and understanding them this way can deepen your attachment to the piece.

・About repairs

If, after long use, a stone comes loose, repair

is possible. If the stone itself is lost, we will check with

the maker to see whether a replacement can be arranged.

Also, please note that if the T-bar of the cufflinks becomes broken or

loose, repair will not be possible.