A gift from Mongolia. The dedication of FACTORY, seen through simple knitwear

Clothing is only complete once someone wears it. Not just the design and color, but the shape, the feel against the skin—every element must come together for a garment to truly be finished. This is something we rarely notice in everyday life. The clothes from FACTORY are exceptional pieces, born from an unwavering dedication to every single step of the clothmaking process.

Not something believed to be good, but something judged to be good. It starts with sourcing quality materials, then building three-dimensional patterns, weaving, sewing, and dyeing.

”FACT IS OUR STORY”

FACTORY's approach to making things means keeping a careful eye on every single process, tailoring each piece down to the smallest detail without compromise.

It all started with a single boutique in 1978. Originally, the shop sold clothing sourced from other manufacturers, but in 1983 the policy shifted to producing every item in-house, and original apparel began to be made in a factory behind the store—this became today's "FACTORY." Born from the desire to bring the very best clothing they could create to as many people as possible, the brand pursued the ideal fabrics and colors, developing through yarn-making and fabric-making into a brand that truly embodies "clothmaking" in its fullest sense. The brand name "FACTORY" refers, quite literally, to a workshop. It reflects the brand's careful craftsmanship, in which everything from fabric-making and pattern-cutting to sewing and dyeing is carried out in their own workshop.

・Design: Paris

FACTORY's clothing is made through a journey spanning Paris, Mongolia, and Japan. The unique forms—blending three-dimensional and flat construction to bring out the material's natural qualities and create a superior wearing experience—are the work of the design team in Paris.

While staying attuned to trends, they remain relentless in their pursuit of the silhouettes and details that are uniquely FACTORY.

・Material: Mongolia

This season's autumn/winter knitwear comes from animal fibers raised on Mongolia's vast, sweeping land. FACTORY says that the wild texture of hair from creatures that survive the bitter cold carries straight through into the clothing. Cashmere, yak, camel—rather than lumping these together simply as "Mongolian animal hair yarns," FACTORY sources only the fibers they have personally judged, with their own eyes, to be good, born from a harsh environment and the individual character bestowed by nature's blessings.

In addition, in December 2016, after 15 years in the planning, FACTORY established its own spinning mill in Mongolia. This made possible a carefully selected fiber-refining process and a spinning process that preserves the natural qualities of the raw material without compromise. Every day, they continue striving to take new steps toward crafting a single, uncompromising thread from the finest raw fiber.

・Manufacturing: Japan

Production takes place in Japan. Cutting, sewing, and dyeing are all done in-house, with an emphasis on entering into dialogue with the garment itself.

For example, even in something as simple as cutting fabric, it would be more efficient—as in mass production settings—to handle multiple layers of fabric at once. But doing so inevitably causes slight misalignments in the cloth. FACTORY cuts fabric for one garment at a time, carefully layering piece by piece to prevent any such misalignment.

The same holds true for sewing. At the heart of FACTORY's clothmaking is a commitment to solid, careful tailoring—valuing the image of the finished garment and the person who will wear it as flat fabric is built up into a three-dimensional form.

FACTORY's dyeing, too, is a one-shot, do-or-die process applied to finished products. Dyeing natural materials is a dialogue with the material itself. As temperature rises, the yarn swells and absorbs the dye liquid; as the temperature climbs further, the yarn tightens and the color sets. Various conditions overlapping in this process give rise to subtle variations in color. In pursuit of better color, FACTORY engages in this daily dialogue with the material through dyeing.

FACTORY holds a deep commitment to using materials such as yak and camel hair. These fibers, known as animal hair, are extremely precious materials, and in order to make full, generous use of them without waste, FACTORY built a factory in Mongolia and makes its clothing using only yarns that they have judged with their own eyes. Here, we introduce the three types of fabric featured this autumn/winter.

Knit (Camel)

This knit fabric uses hair from the Bactrian camels that live in Mongolia's Gobi Desert. It's a rare, soft material—less than half of it can be obtained even from 100kg of raw hair—rich in oils that allow the camel to endure temperatures below minus 40 degrees and a dry climate, giving the fabric its characteristic plump, supple texture. Compared to yak or cashmere, it has a somewhat rougher, more casual feel.

Knit (Yak)

FACTORY's yak knitwear uses hair from yaks raised amid the bitter cold of Mongolia's Bayankhongor region. It's a rare material—only about 20kg can be obtained from 100kg of raw hair—that combines a distinctive springiness with softness. Despite its reassuring thickness, it can be worn comfortably without feeling heavy. Woven to a plump fullness, it has a comfort you'll want to rub your cheek against.

Bamboo Wool

While the previous two fabrics used animal hair gathered in Mongolia, this one is an original blend of bamboo and wool. It has a distinctive drape and sheen, with a characteristic warmth. It has just the right thickness, and despite the wool content, there's no itchiness at all—the texture against the skin is smooth and light.

Camel Tunic-Length Sweater

It's curious how the silhouette manages to feel put-together even with room to spare so it doesn't cling to the body's lines, and with sleeves and hem given a rounded softness. The length is slightly longer, so it looks lovely worn on its own as a one-piece, paired with long boots.

The swaying drape and generously full sleeves lend it a lovely, endearing impression.

Stole worn around the neck: Mea Shawl (Ecru)

Bag: Satchel Bag Sugar Cube (BLACK)

Since this is a loose, relaxed tunic, we also recommend wrapping a naturally colored stole around your neck.

A coarsely knit cable stole becomes an accent piece while still making the most of the tunic's camel-colored material.

Yak Off-Turtleneck Knit with Yoke Lace Pattern

The voluminous-textured turtleneck and the yoke lace-pattern knitting applied to the upper portion together carry a certain nostalgic mood alongside a refined, meticulously calculated sensibility down to the smallest detail. The body width is also fairly relaxed, and with its raglan sleeves, the beauty of the pattern catches the eye when worn.

The generously wide ribbing at the hem and sleeves gives a distinctively relaxed silhouette while still exuding femininity, and scrunching up the long sleeves or hem makes it look even more charming.

Yak wool, with its long fibers and remarkably soft texture, is said to offer warmth that even surpasses cashmere or alpaca, wrapping the body in plush warmth even in the depths of winter. It comes in two colors: GREY, carefully selected from only the pale-toned portions of the raw yak hair, and BROWN, selected exclusively from the deep, rich-toned portions. By making the most of these natural colors, the piece achieves an exquisitely soft, luxurious feel against the skin. This is a piece whose charm lies in colors that fully showcase the material itself. 

Shoes: Side Gore Boots Black

For a knit with such a beautifully plush, thick texture, try adding pierced earrings or clip-on earrings.

With their light, gentle texture, ring earrings from ARATA seem perfect for enjoying an effortlessly stylish look.

Bamboo Wool Pocket Sleeveless One-Piece

The striking three-dimensional pockets on both sides stand out. The slightly raised high neck and the drape created by tucks falling from the shoulders add character to what could otherwise be a simple, monotonous one-piece.

Even with its loose, relaxed fit that doesn't cling to the body, the cocoon silhouette with its restrained hem gives an air of maturity. You can change the impression with the cut-and-sewn top worn underneath. It's simple yet has a strong presence, and adding accessories like an oversized necklace or earrings lets it play the role of a fine supporting piece.

With a moderate thickness and a softly draping texture, it seems likely to earn its keep throughout the year simply by changing what you layer with it.

Turtleneck worn underneath: Turtleneck Cut-and-Sewn (MARINE)

Bag: Satchel Bag Sugar Cube (BLACK)

Shoes: chausser Lace-Up Pumps CGY

This is a piece that makes coordinating with small accessories all the more enjoyable. Add a beret or an oversized necklace, and you'll feel like an actress from a classic film.

Precisely because knitwear is simple, its texture and design come through all the more vividly. The joy you feel each time you slip one on may well come from the depth of thought a brand pours into that single garment.

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