LAPUAN KANKURIT, Finnish wool shawls passed down from father to son

As the season arrives when illuminations light up the city at night, we begin to feel a chill that makes us hunch our shoulders, a sign that winter has truly settled in. In the depths of winter, when the cold grows even harsher, many of us look forward to wrapping ourselves in something warm and taking it slow, whether we're out and about or spending time at home.

LAPUAN KANKURIT, the textile maker we're introducing today, represents the best of Finnish design from the Nordic region. Its wool textiles truly embody the idea of gently wrapping around and supporting someone. The brand name means "the weavers of Lapua," and it's said that there's hardly a Finn who doesn't know it. Born in a small factory, these wool pocket shawls are meant to be picked up and used whether you're out in the winter cold or settling in for a quiet moment at home. Here, we share the story behind them.

Craftsmanship handed down from father to son

The story that led to the founding of LAPUAN KANKURIT traces back 100 years, to a pair of felt boots made by one man. That man was Juho Annala, the great-grandfather of Esko Hjelt, the brand's current owner. The setting was a small town called Lapua in northwestern Finland, at a time of poverty and scarce resources. In an era when wool yarn and linen were made in ordinary households, Juho began producing felt boots from scrap materials and yarn he spun himself. Later, Juho's grandson, Juha Hjelt, joined Varikutomo, a weaving factory run by his uncle, at the age of 15.

▼Varikutomo in the 1950s. Weaving required a great deal of dexterity, which is why so many of the weavers were women.

Juha gained experience on the factory floor, and with the support of those around him, went independent and founded LAPUAN KANKURIT in 1973 as a maker of tapestries. Although Varikutomo, where Juha had worked, owned a jacquard loom, weaving in that era was mostly done by hand, and almost no companies were using jacquard looms. Juha saw an opportunity in this and decided to pursue expertise in jacquard weaving.

Esko, Juha's son and the brand's current owner, looks back on that time and says, "It was then that my father realized that, in the years to come, it would be important to dedicate ourselves to specialized skills, even on a small scale." This spirit continues to guide the brand today. In the 1990s, Esko took over management from his father, Juha. Although Esko had helped out at the factory since childhood, he left Lapua for a time to study textiles at university. After returning to Lapua, he drew on market research conducted by his wife, Jaana, to develop products that met people's needs, which led to the textile brand LAPUAN KANKURIT as it exists today.

Pocket Shawl (DARK LAVENDER)

LAPUAN KANKURIT holds fast to two forms of craftsmanship that matter deeply to the brand.

The first is "specialization." Since the company's founding, even as the products it makes have changed in form, the underlying value of "making things of good quality" has remained unchanged. When Esko took over the company from his father, Juha, the staff numbered a mere seven people—a very small operation. Even today, with a staff of 20, the company remains small in scale, yet it maintains a high standard of quality in its linen yarn processing, which always requires human hands, and in its jacquard weaving, which is labor-intensive and unsuited to mass production.

The second is "being family-run." For LAPUAN KANKURIT, which has approached its work with sincerity, careful consideration for others, and steady research, "the people who work together are like family, and they are the heart of LAPUAN KANKURIT." The children born to Esko, the current owner, and his wife and business partner Jaana, also help out at the shop in Lapua, Finland.

▼Current owner Esko (right) and his partner Jaana (left), who have watched over the factory since childhood.

LAPUAN KANKURIT holds to the concept of "making things that stay close to everyday life." Its products pass the rigorous Ecotex quality standard, ensuring they can be used safely even by people with sensitive skin, and are made to fit comfortably into anyone's life. Because LAPUAN KANKURIT values the connections between people, that spirit shows through in its craftsmanship—and it is likely this that has earned the brand the love of so many people around the world.

LAPUAN KANKURIT's Jacquard Weaving

LAPUAN KANKURIT（ラプアンカンクリ） wool products come in two types—jacquard-woven products and felted products. Both are made from the same wool, but because the processing methods differ, they are produced in different factories. The Pocket Shawl that ZUTTO carries is a "jacquard-woven product." A jacquard-woven product refers to one woven using a jacquard loom. Before the jacquard loom was invented, knitting complex patterns required many people working together, dividing the labor. But with the invention and development of the jacquard loom, it became possible to knit complex patterns using machinery. Of course, human hands are still needed, but using a machine has made it possible to knit more beautifully and in a shorter time.

(top) Pocket Shawl, Block Check, BLACK; (bottom) Pocket Shawl, PALE MAUVE

The Pocket Shawl comes in vivid, richly varied colors. The fabric is dyed in the brand's original colors before being woven, and because production is done on a small scale, meticulous care is taken with each shade to ensure a high-quality product. Also, the jacquard weaving of LAPUAN KANKURIT（ラプアンカンクリ） employs a method that Esko devised while studying to become a textile engineer. This method concerns the weaving of the fabric's edges. Generally, edges are finished by folding and sewing them together, but at LAPUAN KANKURIT（ラプアンカンクリ）, the edges are completed at the very stage of weaving the fabric itself—a technique used for both wool and linen alike.

Pocket Shawl, WINE RED

As a result of Esko's ingenuity, the simple construction makes the shawl both durable and, thanks to the soft edges, comfortable to wear even where it touches the skin. It's finished beautifully, too.

The Pocket Shawl: a blanket you can take with you

As a blanket you can wrap around yourself

Pocket Shawl, MELANGE BEIGE

When you wake up in the morning and get out from under the covers. When you feel a bit chilly at work. When stepping out briefly nearby, or answering the door. Thanks to its convenient size, the Pocket Shawl proves useful in all sorts of situations. Having just one blanket-like piece that you can throw on in an instant is remarkably handy. When folded, it can also be used as a lap blanket.

When you wear it, you can feel the weight characteristic of wool, yet it weighs only 520g—about the same as a 500ml plastic bottle—so you can wrap it around yourself with ease. At the same time, the sturdy texture of the fabric feels reassuringly substantial to the touch, making this a piece you can truly rely on.

Handy pockets for all sorts of uses

Pocket Shawl, WHITE

The Pocket Shawl has pockets on both sides. Naturally, you can slip in small items like your smartphone when moving around the house, and once the season no longer calls for an outer coat, you can pop in your wallet for a quick trip nearby. It's a pleasure to be wrapped in soft warmth while still being able to move freely.

Finding the color you love—or the one someone else will love

With its rich range of color variations, the LAPUAN KANKURIT（ランプアンカンクリ） Pocket Shawl is recommended not only for yourself but as a gift as well.

Colors: (top left) Block Check, PISTACHIO; (top right) PALE MAUVE; (bottom left) WINE RED; (bottom right) WHITE

Colors: (top left) BLUEBERRY; (top right) Block Check, BLACK; (bottom left) MELANGE BEIGE; (bottom right) DARK LAVENDER

The soft【WHITE】evokes the snows of Finland, while【PALE MAUVE】and【DARK LAVENDER】—rare colors for this type of shawl—reveal the LAPUAN KANKURIT（ラプアンカンクリ）commitment to dyeing fabric in the brand's original colors before weaving. As for the block check pattern, we offer two variations: the basic, easy-to-choose【BLACK】, and【PISTACHIO】, which pairs charming, nostalgia-evoking colors. Please take a look and find the shade that suits your taste.

The more you learn about it, the more you'll sense the warm gentleness of its makers, and want to treasure it—that's the LAPUAN KANKURIT（ラプアンカンクリ） Pocket Shawl. Do consider choosing one as a reward for yourself, or as a winter gift for family and friends.

▽Visit the LAPUAN KANKURIT（ラプアンカンクリ） brand page