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The crystallization of "knitting," ready to wear right now. A cotton pullover and a transformable combination stole to see you through to spring

It's February. Even as the wind still feels cold, shop windows around town are already shifting into spring colors and spring textures. Seeing pastel-toned lightweight knits and airy skirts, we notice ourselves growing a little tired of our winter wool sweaters—yet it's still too early to actually wear spring clothes. The truly comfortable season for them is still a few months away. Many of us have probably experienced this kind of mismatch between fashion's calendar and the actual seasons. 

What if you could wear the new clothes you looked forward to buying, comfortably, on the very day you bought them—without having to hold back? And what if there were clothes you could wear beautifully all the way from the chilly season through to early summer? With these thoughts in mind, the ZUTTO original V-neck pullover and transformable combination stole were born.

Why this technique, why this shape, now

Both the pullover and stole introduced here are made of 100% cotton. If we think of them purely as cold-weather items, February is still a season when we want to reach for wool or cashmere—yet it's also the time of year when we start growing a little tired of thick knits. Still, when we reach for new clothes, they often turn out to be too thin or too cold to actually wear. This is the kind of contradiction that arises between the shifting fashion seasons and the reality of our daily lives.

What sparked this clothing project was the idea that if we could resolve this contradiction, the resulting garment would be one people could wear with real affection. Using cotton, which is gentle on the skin and can be worn across a long stretch of seasons, and drawing on both fabric-making techniques and design ingenuity, we arrived at pieces that can be worn in ways suited to the changing seasons.

A cut-and-sew fabric that looks like knitwear. The V-neck pullover

At first glance, this top looks just like a knit sweater, but in terms of how a garment is constructed, it's actually classified as a cut-and-sew (katto-so) piece. "Cut-and-sew" is a general term for garments made by cutting and sewing knitted (as opposed to woven) fabric. We're most familiar with cut-and-sew pieces made from finely knit fabric, such as thin cotton cut-and-sew tops or summer T-shirts. The V-neck pullover introduced here is likewise produced through the same cutting and sewing process. 

Rather than using a single thick thread, we added the delicate step of aligning five separate threads together. This produces the distinctive texture of a thick-gauge, middle-gauge knit. To begin with, it's extremely rare for a circular knitting machine to be able to align five strands of 10-count single yarn at this gauge—there are only a handful of such machines in all of Japan. Since ordinary knitting machines can't manage this kind of knitting, a specialized machine is used instead. The yarn used is a thick type called "card yarn," which produces an overall natural texture that's difficult to achieve with combed yarn (yarn from which short fibers have been even more carefully removed to increase fiber uniformity). 

Slip it on, and it gives off a gently relaxed impression, yet when you touch it, you can feel just how tightly and densely it's knit. Sweaters knit loosely from thick yarn often end up looking limp and overly casual as they're worn over time, but by focusing on creating a dense, firm fabric, this piece achieves both a relaxed feel and just the right touch of refinement. 



We've also paid close attention to silhouette details so the piece can be worn across a wide range of seasons. The pattern is designed with a dropped shoulder line, paired with side slits and a slightly longer hem, so it looks beautiful from the side and back as well. In the still-chilly months of February and March, we recommend layering it over something like a striped cut-and-sew top underneath. As the season progresses and the weather warms, wear it on its own instead—worn simply and straight, it creates a beautiful silhouette all by itself.

Typical V-neck knit sweaters often have ribbing around the collar, but by making the most of cut-and-sew construction techniques, we were able to eliminate the ribbing and create a clean, uncluttered neckline. This makes it a wonderful base for showing off accessories around the face and neck, such as stoles, scarves, and necklaces.

The idea of "layering two pieces." The transformable combination stole

A stole is typically thought of as a simple rectangular piece of fabric, but precisely because of that simplicity, the ways you can wrap it—and the way it feels and warms you when wrapped—tend to fall into a single pattern. This is exactly why we end up wanting several stoles in different materials, colors, and sizes. From there came the idea: what if a single stole could change shape into two or three different forms, letting you enjoy variety in both practicality and style?

What emerged from this thinking is a design that layers two tube-shaped stoles of different sizes, one over the other. The two stoles are made from subtly different fabrics—one a cut-and-sew material, the other a knit material.

For the cut-and-sew fabric, we chose a material called "vintage tenjiku." The yarn is spun slowly, at the production speed of the old days, with fine-tuned machine adjustments, then knitted on a low-speed knitting machine to carefully produce the fabric. Rather than the artificial unevenness forced by today's mainstream computer-controlled processes, we prioritized a natural texture that settles gently and comfortably against the skin. 


Also, the knit fabric uses high-quality cotton, carefully knitted over a long time as "tsuri tenjiku" (suspended jersey knit). Glossy, smooth-surfaced yarn is slowly knitted on old-style knitting machines, but in recent years, very few of these suspended knitting machines still exist, making the fabric produced by them increasingly rare. The name "tsuri" (suspended) comes from the fact that the knitting machine is hung from a beam, and only about 1 meter of fabric can be knitted per hour. Because production efficiency is low, the yarn is not subjected to excessive stress, and is knitted in a relaxed state while incorporating air. The softness and warmth that become more apparent with each washing are qualities unique to this tsuri tenjiku fabric.

There are two color combinations: "Grey × Navy" and "Khaki × Mustard." In each, the navy and mustard serve as accent colors. The design allows the pieces to be worn layered together or on their own, so with just one combination, you can enjoy two or even three different styling arrangements.

As the name suggests, the combi stole lets you enjoy the "combination" of colors and fabrics by layering two stoles together, but it can also be used on its own without layering. The photo shows the "Grey × Navy" combi stole with the "Grey" stole removed. You can see that both ends form large loops.

And by making use of its "tube" shape, you can also style it like a snood. As shown in the photo (top), fold one end of the tube inward, doubling it over. The photo (left) shows it folded once, halved in length, and the photo (right) shows it folded once more, reduced to a quarter of its original length.

The result is a shape just like a snood. You can wrap it loosely around your neck, or, as shown in the photo, let the hem drop down to cover your shoulders as well. Enjoy arranging it to suit the outfit you're wearing and the weather of the day.

A Calendar of Favorite Clothes, Close to Everyday Life

Now let's take a look at some actual coordination examples using the V-neck pullover and the combi stole. From the end of winter through the height of spring, this V-neck pullover is packed with the kind of appeal that makes you think, "I want to wear this now"—whatever the season. We hope you'll enjoy styling it to match the moment.

February: Layer an inner top for a warm, layered style

In February, when temperatures are still quite low, a single cotton pullover alone can feel a bit chilly, so layer a cut-and-sew top underneath. As shown in the photo, layering a longer cut-and-sew top and letting a bit of its color or pattern peek out is a stylish touch. Since the fabric has a crisp, substantial hand, it doesn't cling to the body's lines even when layered, letting you wear it in a neat, put-together way.

March: Layer a stole over the V-neck pullover

Top: V-Neck Pullover (BEIGE)

Stole: Cotton Combi Stole (KHAKI/MUSTARD)

Skirt: Coming soon

Bag: PETIT PANIER XS

As temperatures gradually rise, it becomes comfortable enough to wear just a single top. Pair the cotton pullover with a long tiered skirt. Since the temperature difference between morning and evening is still large during this season, we recommend using the combi stole doubled up. It's also handy for quick errands or a walk to a nearby café. Wind it around loosely for extra volume, or wrap it more casually as shown in the photo for a sleeker look—it pairs beautifully with a lightweight spring coat as well.

April: Wear it loosely, like a cardigan

Stole: Cotton Combi Stole (GREY/NAVY) 

Bag: GOAT Mesh Bag L (WHITE)

By April, when it's truly begun to feel like spring and temperatures have risen, try wearing the combi stole draped over your shoulders like a cardigan. It's a great ally for those moments when a coat feels like too much, but a shirt or thin knit alone still isn't quite warm enough. Since the tube-shaped stole is doubled, wearing it means draping the equivalent of four layers of fabric, giving it just the right amount of warmth.

Into early summer: Wear the stole snood-style, all the way through summer

Top: Crew Neck Cut-and-Sew (BLANC×NAVY)

Stole: Cotton Combi Stole (GREY/NAVY)

As summer approaches, a stole starts to serve a new purpose—protection from sun and air-conditioning. The tube-shaped stole is a clever item that can also function like a snood when you slip the loop over your neck.  In the photo, only the navy stole from the "Cotton Combi Stole (GREY/NAVY)" is being used on its own. Drape it loosely around your neck, or pull it up to cover your shoulders—perfect for guarding against air-conditioning in the office or in the car.

▶︎The "V-Neck Pullover," in step with your eagerness for spring

▶︎The "Cotton Combi Stole," where two colors create endless variation

投稿者: 斎藤 日時: 2018年02月15日 11:00 | permalink

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