A cardigan-coat pursuing lightness and comfort. The story behind the special fabric, Balance Circular

This time, we'd like to introduce Bebrain, a brand handling special fabrics born in Wakayama Prefecture, a town known for meriyasu (knitted fabric).

The fabric, called Balance Circular, is a one-of-a-kind material that only this maker can produce anywhere in the world. Let's unravel the story behind the birth of Balance Circular fabric—sought after for its lightness, stretch, and resistance to fraying, among other qualities found nowhere else—along with the brand's philosophy. 

Wakayama Prefecture is known as a town for meriyasu, the knitted fabrics known as jersey and mericot. Maruwa Knit, founded there in 1934, started out as a maker of undergarments knitted in the meriyasu style, and as its techniques improved, it gradually began manufacturing knit outerwear as well.

The creation of Balance Circular began, originally, with a chance encounter with a secondhand knitting machine that had an unusual structure. It was a machine assembled with a device that fed warp threads into every course, with as many as 1,920 warp threads (each one, we're told, threaded by hand by a craftsperson). Since the fabric woven by the original machine had certain flaws, the team spent several years making improvements before finally succeeding in creating a fabric they were satisfied with.

That said, it's difficult to handle, requires skill, and is by no means efficient to produce. Even so, they continue to build on the strengths of Balance Circular—the qualities and uniqueness it possesses as a fabric, and the fact that Maruwa Knit is the only maker in the world who can produce it.

Balance Circular is a "WOVEN KNIT" that fuses woven fabric and knit fabric.

Its features are as follows:

　・Easy to move in: With the stretch of a knit and just the right amount of tension, it offers a comfortable fit that conforms to the body.

　・Resistant to losing its shape or wrinkling: Because the material has a high recovery rate, the fabric is less prone to distortion from movement, and areas that bend, such as the elbows, are less likely to show creases.

　・Fray-resistant, allowing for a lighter finish: Since it can simply be cut without any edge finishing, there's no need for extra seam allowances or thread, resulting in a lighter garment. 

Bebrain is the factory brand that Maruwa Knit launched using this Balance Circular fabric. Behind the brand's launch was an extraordinary passion for Balance Circular.

At first, the company was supplying the fabric to clothing manufacturers, but it seems there were cases where Balance Circular was being used in ways they hadn't intended. Although Balance Circular has all sorts of functional qualities, the designs and patterns weren't always drawing out its characteristics well.

Seeing this, they realized that they themselves, as the makers of the fabric, understood its qualities best. So they decided that if that was the case, they should create the garments themselves—garments that would let people feel the fabric's strengths to the fullest.

And so the brand Bebrain was launched. The name "Bebrain" carries the meaning "let's use our heads and wisdom more." You can feel the wish and passion behind it—to keep turning new, never-before-seen ideas into products using the Balance Circular fabric. 

"Cordigan" is a coined term combining "coat" and "cardigan," referring to an outer layer light enough to throw on like a cardigan. It's an item that gets the best of both worlds—perfect for those times when a cardigan alone feels a bit too cold, but it's still too early in the season for a thick coat.

We used Balance Circular fabric for this cordigan. A design that draws on the characteristics of Balance Circular means, in short, a pursuit of lightness and comfort.

・Generously cut fabric with tucks

Taking advantage of the fabric's suppleness, we used a generous amount of fabric to create a beautiful drape, with tucks placed under both shoulders. It's precisely because Balance Circular is such a lightweight fabric that even using more material still results in a light garment.

・Raw-cut edges reduce seam allowance and thread

Because the knitted fabric can be used with raw-cut edges, there's no need for the seam allowances and stitching thread that ordinary fabric edges require. The hem and sleeves of the cordigan are left cleanly raw-cut. Other areas where fabric tends to gather, such as the back, can also be sewn without seam allowances—remarkably, this shaves off about the weight of a smartphone.

・Freer arm movement, thanks to the absence of seam allowances

Being able to use raw-cut edges means no seam allowance is needed, which in turn means less bulk on the inside when worn. In autumn and winter, we tend to wear thick items like sweaters and cardigans underneath our outerwear, and the bulk around the arms and shoulders that results can make movement difficult. In bad cases, this can even lead to stiff shoulders. But with Balance Circular, there's no seam allowance getting in the way, so it stays comfortable to wear. 

We offer three types of cordigan in total. Please choose based on differences in length or fabric finish. All of them use merino wool from Australia. Merino wool is characterized by extremely fine, soft fibers that feel wonderful against the skin, along with excellent warmth retention.

【　Balance Circular Cordigan　】

The middle length (knee-length) coat-cardigan pairs easily with both pants and skirts, so if you're unsure, this is the length to start with. It comes with a belt, and cinching it at the waist and tying it in front gives a feminine look, while tying it loosely in back lets the drape at the front fall beautifully. You can tuck the belt into the pockets, or simply let it hang loose on either side—both looks are stylish. Even just changing how you use the belt shifts the impression entirely, so you can enjoy experimenting with different styles.

【　Balance Circular Air Wave Cardigan　】

The length is the same as the "Balance Circular Cardigan" introduced above, but the fabric processing is different. The Balance Circular fabric has been brushed to create a plush, warm finish. The grey, with its subtle heathered variation in tone, adds a lovely depth of expression. Unlike the other series, turn-back stitching has been added to the collar and front panels, giving the collar more structure and a crisp, refined silhouette.

【　Balance Circular Long Cardigan　】

This longer length has more of an outerwear feel to it. It's where you can most fully appreciate the fabric's suppleness and beautiful drape. As you walk, it sways gently, giving the impression of wearing a one-piece dress.

▼See all Bebrain products